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Vogue Proposed Edits: See original article here

History

Cover of the May 1917 first issue. (American Vogue)

In 1894 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States, sponsored by Kristoffer Wright.[1] When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly grew its publication. He changed it to a bi-weekly magazine and also started Vogue overseas starting in the 1910s. He first went to Britain in 1916, and started a Vogue there, then to Spain, and then to Italy and France in 1920, where it was a huge success. The magazine's number of publications and profit increased dramatically under his management. The magazine's number of subscriptions surged during the Depression, and again during World War II. During this time, noted critic and former Vanity Fair editor Frank Crowninshield served as its editor, having been moved over from Vanity Fair by publisher Condé Nast.[2]

In the 1960s, with Diana Vreeland as editor-in-chief and personality, the magazine began to appeal to the youth of the sexual revolution by focusing more on contemporary fashion and editorial features openly discussing sexuality. Toward this end, Vogue extended coverage to include East Village boutiques such as Limbo on St. Mark's Place as well as featuring "downtown" personalities such as Warhol "Superstar" Jane Holzer's favorite haunts.[3] Vogue also continued making household names out of models, a practice that continued with Suzy Parker, Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Lauren Hutton, Veruschka, Marisa Berenson, Penelope Tree, and others.[4]

In 1973, Vogue became a monthly publication.[citation needed] Under editor-in-chief Grace Mirabella, the magazine underwent extensive editorial and stylistic changes to respond to changes in the lifestyles of its target audience.[5] 

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Following Mirabella, current editor-in-chief of American ‘‘Vogue’’ Anna Wintour,[6] noted for her trademark bob and sunglasses. [citation needed] was brought in July of 1988.[6] Having proven herself as editor-in-chief at British Vogue and House & Garden, she promised “cutting-edge visual sensibilities”, in contrast to her predecessor who was criticized for coasting along in what one journalist derisively called "its beige years". Feeling pressure from upstart Elle, which in just three years had reached a paid circulation of 851,000 to Vogue 's stagnant 1.2 million Condé Nast executives reached out to 38 year old Wintour, providing her the position. [7]

Wintour has worked to protect the magazine's high status and reputation among fashion publications. She transformed the magazine into a pedestal focusing on new and accessible concepts of "fashion" for a wider audience.[8] This strategy kept circulation high while promoting the discovery of new trends which were fiscally accessible to a larger audience.[8] For example, Wintour’s first cover as editor featured a three-quarter-length photograph of Israeli super model Michaela Bercu wearing a bejeweled Christian Lacroix jacket and a pair of jeans, departing from the convention of portraying a woman's face alone. According to the Times', this gave "greater importance to both her clothing and her body.”[9]

Wintour's membership in the Council of Fashion Designers of America beginning in 2003 has helped to bolster designer loyalty to Vogue as the organization provides funds and guidance to at least two emerging designers each year.[8] This relationship has helped to preserve the magazine's dominant position of influence through what Time called her own "considerable influence over American fashion."[8] 

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below: add more regarding why joined healthy body initiative, frame as "In May 2012 Vogue signed HBI" not, 2013, 1 year anniversary

May 2013 marked the one-year anniversary of a healthy body initiative that was signed by the magazine's international editors—the initiative represents a commitment from the editors to promote positive body images within the content of Vogue's numerous editions. Australian editor Edwina McCann explained:

In the magazine we're moving away from those very young, very thin girls. A year down the track, we ask ourselves what can Vogue do about it? And an issue like this [June 2013 issue] is what we can do about it. If I was aware of a girl being ill on a photo shoot I wouldn't allow that shoot to go ahead, or if a girl had an eating disorder I would not shoot her.[10]

The Australian edition's June issue is entitled the "Body Issue" and will feature articles on exercise and nutrition, as well as a diverse range of models. New York-based Australian plus-size model Robyn Lawley, who has previously featured on the cover of Vogue Italia, will also appear in a swimwear shoot for the June issue.[10]

Only four men have been featured on the cover of the magazine:[11][12][13]

Style and influence

Models Toni Garrn and brother Niklas Garrn wearing Google Glass at a recent Vogue fall fashion photo shoot in Ransom Canyon, Texas (June 25, 2013).
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Vogue was described by book critic Caroline Weber in The New York Times in December 2006 as "the world's most influential fashion magazine":[9] Notably due to the persona and achievements of its editor Anna Wintour; its various charitable and community projects; its ability to reflect political discourse through fashion and editorial articles; and its move into emerging economies. 

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below: greater depth into philanthropy required, currently poorly worded

Vogue also uses its industry clout for good causes, most recently with the Fashion Night Out annual event. Also the brainchild of Wintour, FNO was launched in 2009 to kick start the economy by encouraging people to start spending money again. The proceeds of sales on the night go towards various charitable causes. The event is co-hosted by Vogue publications in 27 cities around the US and 15 countries worldwide, and from 2011 will include online retailers.[14]

Vogue uses fashion, editorial and community projects to raise awareness of issues on the current political agenda. The burqa, for instance, made an appearance in a fashion spread in Vogue in 2006 and the publication has featured articles on prominent Muslim women, their approach to fashion and the effect of different cultures on fashion and women’s lives. In the “Beauty Without Borders” initiative, Vogue sponsored a project to teach beauty skills to Afghan women.[15] 

below: this seems weak / vaguely biased?

Another way in which Vogue exerts its influence is by starting new titles in emerging economies such as Russia. Started in 1998, Vogue Russia has set about introducing Russian women to a new world of fashion and opportunities in a post-Socialist society. When Vogue starts a new title in an emerging economy, it indicates that the society has undergone, “a change in the politics of style, imagery, gender representations, and consumption practices.”[16]

Criticism

Main article: The Devil Wears Prada (novel)
below: Can this be framed as more about vogue?

As Wintour came to personify the magazine's image, she and Vogue drew critics. Wintour's one-time assistant at the magazine, Lauren Weisberger, wrote a roman à clef entitled The Devil Wears Prada. Published in 2003, the novel became a bestseller and was adapted as a highly successful, Academy Award-nominated film in 2006. The central character resembled Weisberger, and her boss was a powerful editor-in-chief of a fictionalized version of Vogue. The novel portrays a magazine ruled by "the Antichrist and her coterie of fashionistas, who exist on cigarettes, Diet Dr. Pepper, and mixed green salads", according to a review in the New York Times. The editor is described by Weisberger as being "an empty, shallow, bitter woman who has tons and tons of gorgeous clothes and not much else".[17] The success of both the novel and the film brought new attention from a wide global audience to the power and glamour of the magazine, and the industry it continues to lead.[18]

In 2007, Vogue drew criticism from the anti-smoking group, "Campaign for Tobacco-Free Kids", for carrying tobacco advertisements in the magazine. The group claims that volunteers sent the magazine more than 8,000 protest emails or faxes regarding the ads. The group also claimed that in response, they received scribbled notes faxed back on letters that had been addressed to editor Anna Wintour stating, "Will you stop? You're killing trees!"[19]

A spokesperson for Condé Nast released an official statement stating that, "Vogue does carry tobacco advertising. Beyond that we have no further comment."[19]

In April 2008, the American Vogue had a cover shot by the famed photographer Annie Leibovitz, featuring the supermodel Gisele Bündchen and the basketball superstar LeBron James. This was the third time that Vogue featured a male on the cover of the American issue (the other two men were the actors George Clooney and Richard Gere), and the first in which the man was black. Some observers criticized the cover as a prejudicial depiction of James because his pose with Bündchen was reminiscent of a poster for the film King Kong.[20] Further criticism arose when the website Watching the Watchers analyzed the photo alongside the World War I recruitment poster titled Destroy This Mad Brute.[21] James reportedly however liked the cover shoot.

In February 2011, just before the 2011 Syrian protests unfolded, Vogue published a controversial piece by Joan Juliet Buck on Asma al-Assad, wife of the Syrian president Bashar al-Assad.[22] A number of journalists criticized the article as glossing over the poor human rights record of Bashar al-Assad.[23][24] It has been reported that the Syrian government paid the U.S. lobbying firm Brown Lloyd James $5,000 per month to arrange for and manage the article.[25][26]

Other editions

In 2005, Condé Nast launched Men's Vogue and announced plans for an American version of Vogue Living launching in late fall of 2006 (there is currently an edition in Australia). Men's Vogue ceased publication as an independent publication in October 2008 and is now a twice-yearly extract in the main edition.

Condé Nast also publishes Teen Vogue,[27] a version of the magazine for teen girls, the Seventeen demographic, in the United States. South Korea and Australia has a Vogue Girl magazine (currently suspended from further publication), in addition to Vogue Living and Vogue Entertaining + Travel.

Vogue Hommes International is an international men's fashion magazine based in Paris, France, and L'uomo Vogue is the Italian men's version.[28] Other Italian versions of Vogue include Vogue Casa and Bambini Vogue.

Until 1961, Vogue was also the publisher of Vogue Patterns, a home sewing pattern company. It was sold to Butterick Publishing which also licensed the Vogue name. Vogue China was launched in September 2005 with Australian supermodel Gemma Ward on the cover, flanked by Chinese models. In 2007 an Arabic edition of Vogue was rejected by Condé Nast International. October 2007 saw the launch of Vogue India, and Vogue Turkey was launched in March 2010.

On 5 March 2010, 16 International Editors-in-chief of Vogue met in Paris to discuss the 2nd Fashion's Night Out. Present in the meeting were the 16 International editors-in-chief of Vogue: Anna Wintour (American Vogue), Emmanuelle Alt (French Vogue), Franca Sozzani (Italian Vogue), Alexandra Shulman (British Vogue), Kirstie Clements (Australian Vogue), Aliona Doletskaya (Russian Vogue), Angelica Cheung (Chinese Vogue), Christiane Arp (German Vogue), Priya Tanna (Indian Vogue), Rosalie Huang (Taiwanese Vogue), Paula Mateus (Portuguese Vogue), Seda Domanic (Turkish Vogue), Yolanda Sacristan (Spanish Vogue), Eva Hughes (Mexican Vogue), Mitsuko Watanabe (Japanese Vogue), and Daniela Falcao (Brazilian Vogue).

It was the very first time where all the international editors-in-chief of Vogue come together, as it is very hard to put them in one room together. All of the International editors-in-chief of Vogue, except for Anna Wintour, then dined together at the famous Parisian restaurant, Prunier, hosted by Condé Nast International Chairman Jonathan Newhouse and his wife Ronnie Newhouse.[29]

Since 2010, 7 new editors-in-chief joined Vogue, First is Victoria Davydova, who replaced Aliona Doletskaya as editor-in-chief of Russian Vogue, Emmanuelle Alt who took over French Vogue as editor-in-chief after Carine Roitfeld resigned, followed by Edwina McCann who took over Australian Vogue as editor-in-chief after Kirstie Clements was unceremoniously fired, and Kelly Talamas replaced Eva Hughes at Vogue Mexico and Vogue Latin America when Hughes was named CEO of Condé Nast Mexico and Latin America in 2012. Then Karin Swerink, Kullawit Laosukrsi, and Masha Tsukanova were appointed editors-in-chief of newly launch Vogues Netherlands, Thailand, and Ukraine respectively.

Media

Main article: The September Issue

In 2009, the feature-length documentary The September Issue was released; it was an inside view of the production of the record-breaking September 2007 issue of U.S. Vogue, directed by R. J. Cutler. The film was shot over eight months as editor-in-chief Anna Wintour prepared the issue. It included at times testy exchanges between Wintour and her creative director Grace Coddington. The issue became the largest ever published; over 5 pounds in weight and 840 pages in length, a world record for a monthly magazine.[citation needed] Since then, that record has been broken by Vogue's 2012 September issue.

In September 2012 Vogue magazine has created an issue that is 915 pages long. This issue tops the September issue of 2007 in it being the largest VOGUE issue to date. It is unknown if a second September issue movie will be made.

Launched in 2001 by Condé Nast Digital, Voguepedia is a fashion encyclopedia that also includes an archive that consists of every issue of Vogue's American edition since 1892 [30]. Only Vogue staff are permitted to contribute to the encyclopedia, unlike the VogueEncyclo—hosted by Vogue Italia—that receives contributions from anyone.[30] As of May 9, 2013, the site is not fully functional, as code still shows in search results and only certain search terms yield results.[31]

Voguepedia

Founded by Vogue (Condé Nast Digital), Voguepedia is a fashion encyclopedia that also includes an archive that consists of every issue of Vogue's American edition since 1892. Only Vogue staff are permitted to contribute to the encyclopedia, unlike the VogueEncyclo—hosted by Vogue Italia—that receives contributions from anyone.[31] As of May 9, 2013, the site is not fully functional, as code still shows in search results and only certain search terms yield results.[32]

Edition Information

The following highlights circulation dates as well as individuals who have served as editor-in-chief of Vogue:

Country Circulation Dates Editor-in-Chief Start year End year
United States 1892-present Josephine Redding 1892 1901
Marie Harrison 1901 1914
Edna Woolman Chase 1914 1951
Jessica Daves 1952 1963
Diana Vreeland 1963 1971
Grace Mirabella 1971 1988
Anna Wintour 1988 present
United Kingdom 1920-present Elspeth Champcommunal 1916 1922
Dorothy Todd 1923 1926
Alison Settle 1926 1934
Elizabeth Penrose 1934 1940
Audrey Withers 1940 1961
Ailsa Garland 1961 1965
Beatrix Miller 1965 1984
Anna Wintour 1985 1987
Liz Tilberis 1988 1992
Alexandra Shulman 1992 present
France 1920-present Cosette Vogel 1922 1927
Main Bocher 1927 1929
Michel de Brunhoff 1929 1954
Edmonde Charles-Roux 1954 1966
Fransçoise de Langlade 1966 1968
Francine Crescent 1968 1987
Colombe Pringle 1987 1994
Joan Juliet Buck 1994 2001
Carine Roitfeld 2001 2010
Emmanuelle Alt 2011 Present
Spain 1921-1936, 1988-present Yolanda Sacristán 1983 present
Italy 1922-1941, 1964-Present Franco Sartori 1966 1988
Franca Sozzani 1988 present
Germany 1924-1941, 1979-present Christine Arp present
Cuba 1934-1961
New Zealand 1957-1968 Sheila Scotter 1957 1968
Australia 1959-present Rosemary Cooper 1959 1968
Sheila Scotter 1969
June McCallum
Nancy Pilcher 1996
Marion Hume 1997 1998
Juliet Ashworth 1998 1999
Kirstie Clements 1999 2012
Edwina McCann 2012 present
Brazil 1975-present Luiz Carta 1975 1986
Andrea Carta 1986 2003
Patricia Carta 2003 2010
Daniela Falcão 2010 present
Mexico & Latin America 1980-present Kelly Talamas 2012 present
Eva Hughes 2000 2012
South Korea 1996-present Myung Hee Lee 1996 present
Russia 1998-present Aliona Doletskaya 1998 2010
Victoria Davydova 2010 present
Argentina 1993-2002
Taiwan 1996-present Sky Wu present
Japan 1999-present Hiromi Sogo 1999
Mitsuko Watanabe present
Greece 1999-2012 Elena Makris 1999 2012
Portugal 2002-present
China 2005-present Angelica Cheung 2005 present
India 2007-present Priya Tanna 2007 present
Turkey 2010-present Seda Domaniç 2010 present
Netherlands 2012-present Karin Swerink 2012 present
Thailand 2013-present Kullawit Laosuksri 2013 present[33]
Ukraine 2013-present Masha Tsukanova 2013 present

References

  1. ^ Penelope Rowlands (2008) A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters Simon and Schuster,2008
  2. ^ Fine Collins, Amy. "Vanity Fair: The Early Years, 1914–1936". Vanity Fair. Retrieved 18 July 2007.
  3. ^ Vogue (15 February 1968)
  4. ^ Dwight, Eleanor. "The Divine Mrs. V". New York. Retrieved 18 November 2007.
  5. ^ Mirabella, Grace (1995). "In and Out of Vogue". Doubleday.
  6. ^ a b "Vogue – Editor-in-chief Bio". Condé Nast. Condé Nast. 2013. Retrieved 16 May 2013. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  7. ^ Fortini, Amanda (10 February 2005). "Defending Vogue's Evil Genius: The Brilliance of Anna Wintour". Retrieved 29 January 2007.
  8. ^ a b c d Orecklin, Michelle (9 February 2004). "The Power List: Women in Fashion, No. 3 Anna Wintour". Time magazine. Retrieved 29 January 2007.
  9. ^ a b Weber, Caroline (3 December 2006). "Fashion-Books: Review of "IN VOGUE: The Illustrated History of the World's Most Famous Fashion Magazine (Rizzoli)"". New York Times. Retrieved 28 January 2007.
  10. ^ a b GLYNIS TRAILL-NASH (17 May 2013). "Vogue eager to make an issue of 'real' women". The Australian. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  11. ^ "Ryan Lochte Is the Fourth Man to Ever Cover Vogue - The Cut". Nymag.com. 2012-05-14. Retrieved 2013-06-04.
  12. ^ "LeBron becomes one of only three men to grace cover of Vogue - NBA - ESPN". Sports.espn.go.com. 2008-03-13. Retrieved 2013-06-04.
  13. ^ "Vogue Olympic Cover Featuring Hope Solo, Ryan Lochte, and Serena Williams (PHOTOS)". Global Grind. 2012-05-14. Retrieved 2013-06-04.
  14. ^ Garton, Christie. "Fashion's Night Out mobilized fashionistas worldwide for good". USA Today. Retrieved 13 May 2011.
  15. ^ McLarney, Ellen (1 January 2009). "The burqa in Vogue: Fashioning Afghanistan". Journal of Middle East Women's Studies. 5 (1): 1–23. {{cite journal}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  16. ^ Bartlett, Djundja (2006). "In Russia, At Last and Forever: The First Seven Years of Russian Vogue". Fashion Theory. 10 (1/2): 175–204.
  17. ^ Betts, Kate (13 April 2003). "Anna Dearest". New York Times. Retrieved 29 January 2007.
  18. ^ Wilson, Eric (28 December 2006). "The Devil Likes Attention". New York Times. Retrieved 29 January 2007.
  19. ^ a b Noveck, Jocelyn (30 May 2007). "Fashion Mags Anger Some With Tobacco Ads". San Francisco Chronicle. Associated press. Archived from the original on 31 May 2007. Retrieved 18 November 2007.
  20. ^ K. Scott, Megan (24 March 2008). "LeBron James' 'Vogue' cover called racially insensitive". USA TODAY. Associated Press. Retrieved 31 March 2008.
  21. ^ Cadenhead, Rogers (28 March 2008). "Annie Leibovitz Monkeys Around with LeBron James". Retrieved 30 December 2009.
  22. ^ Buck, Joan Juliet. "Asma al-Assad: A Rose in the Desert". Vogue. Retrieved 4 April 2011.
  23. ^ Malone, Noreen. "The Middle East's Marie Antoinettes". Slate. Retrieved 4 April 2011.
  24. ^ Freeland, Chrystia (17 March 2011). "The Balance of Charm and Reality". The New York Times. Retrieved 4 April 2011.
  25. ^ Fisher, Max (3 January 2012). "The Only Remaining Online Copy of Vogue's Asma al-Assad Profile". The Atlantic. Retrieved 5 January 2012.
  26. ^ Bogardus, Kevin (3 August 2011). "PR firm worked with Syria on controversial photo shoot". The Atlantic. Retrieved 5 January 2012.
  27. ^ Teen Vogue Website
  28. ^ Website and Subscription for Vogue Hommes International
  29. ^ Source needed
  30. ^ Danica Lo (May 9, 2011) Voguepedia Soft Launches Racked
  31. ^ "Main Page". Voguepedia. Conde Naste. 2013. Retrieved 16 May 2013. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  32. ^ MISTY WHITE SIDELL (9). "119 Years of Vogue, Now Available on 'Voguepedia'". Fashionista. Breaking Media. Retrieved 16 May 2013. {{cite web}}: Check date values in: |date= and |year= / |date= mismatch (help); Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  33. ^ Cite error: The named reference Thai was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
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