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Vogue Proposed Edits: See original article here

History

Cover of the May 1917 first issue. (American Vogue)

In 1894 Arthur Turnure founded Vogue as a weekly publication in the United States, sponsored by Kristoffer Wright. When he died in 1909, Condé Montrose Nast picked up the magazine and slowly grew its publication. He changed it to a bi-weekly magazine and also started Vogue overseas starting in the 1910s. He first went to Britain in 1916, and started a Vogue there, then to Spain, and then to Italy and France in 1920, where it was a huge success. The magazine's number of publications and profit increased dramatically under his management. The magazine's number of subscriptions surged during the Depression, and again during World War II. During this time, noted critic and former Vanity Fair editor Frank Crowninshield served as its editor, having been moved over from Vanity Fair by publisher Condé Nast.

In the 1960s, with Diana Vreeland as editor-in-chief and personality, the magazine began to appeal to the youth of the sexual revolution by focusing more on contemporary fashion and editorial features openly discussing sexuality. Toward this end, Vogue extended coverage to include East Village boutiques such as Limbo on St. Mark's Place as well as featuring "downtown" personalities such as Warhol "Superstar" Jane Holzer's favorite haunts. Vogue also continued making household names out of models, a practice that continued with Suzy Parker, Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Lauren Hutton, Veruschka, Marisa Berenson, Penelope Tree, and others.

In 1973, Vogue became a monthly publication. Under editor-in-chief Grace Mirabella, the magazine underwent extensive editorial and stylistic changes to respond to changes in the lifestyles of its target audience.

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Following Mirabella, current editor-in-chief of American ‘‘Vogue’’ Anna Wintour, noted for her trademark bob and sunglasses. was brought in July of 1988. Having proven herself as editor-in-chief at British Vogue and House & Garden, she promised “cutting-edge visual sensibilities”, in contrast to her predecessor who was criticized for coasting along in what one journalist derisively called "its beige years". Feeling pressure from upstart Elle, which in just three years had reached a paid circulation of 851,000 to Vogue 's stagnant 1.2 million Condé Nast executives reached out to 38 year old Wintour, providing her the position.

Wintour has worked to protect the magazine's high status and reputation among fashion publications. She transformed the magazine into a pedestal focusing on new and accessible concepts of "fashion" for a wider audience. This strategy kept circulation high while promoting the discovery of new trends which were fiscally accessible to a larger audience. For example, Wintour’s first cover as editor featured a three-quarter-length photograph of Israeli super model Michaela Bercu wearing a bejeweled Christian Lacroix jacket and a pair of jeans, departing from the convention of portraying a woman's face alone. According to the Times', this gave "greater importance to both her clothing and her body.”

Wintour's membership in the Council of Fashion Designers of America beginning in 2003 has helped to bolster designer loyalty to Vogue as the organization provides funds and guidance to at least two emerging designers each year. This relationship has helped to preserve the magazine's dominant position of influence through what Time called her own "considerable influence over American fashion."

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below: add more regarding why joined healthy body initiative, frame as "In May 2012 Vogue signed HBI" not, 2013, 1 year anniversary 

May 2013 marked the one-year anniversary of a healthy body initiative that was signed by the magazine's international editors—the initiative represents a commitment from the editors to promote positive body images within the content of Vogue's numerous editions. Australian editor Edwina McCann explained:

In the magazine we're moving away from those very young, very thin girls. A year down the track, we ask ourselves what can Vogue do about it? And an issue like this [June 2013 issue] is what we can do about it. If I was aware of a girl being ill on a photo shoot I wouldn't allow that shoot to go ahead, or if a girl had an eating disorder I would not shoot her.

The Australian edition's June issue is entitled the "Body Issue" and will feature articles on exercise and nutrition, as well as a diverse range of models. New York-based Australian plus-size model Robyn Lawley, who has previously featured on the cover of Vogue Italia, will also appear in a swimwear shoot for the June issue.

Only four men have been featured on the cover of the magazine:

• Richard Gere, with Cindy Crawford in November 1992;
• George Clooney, with Gisele Bündchen in June 2000;
• LeBron James, with Gisele Bündchen in April 2008; and
• Ryan Lochte, with Hope Solo and Serena Williams in June 2012.

Style and influence

Models Toni Garrn and brother Niklas Garrn wearing Google Glass at a recent Vogue fall fashion photo shoot in Ransom Canyon, Texas (June 25, 2013).

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Vogue was described by book critic Caroline Weber in The New York Times in December 2006 as "the world's most influential fashion magazine": Notably due to the persona and achievements of its editor Anna Wintour; its various charitable and community projects; its ability to reflect political discourse through fashion and editorial articles; and its move into emerging economies.

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below: greater depth into philanthropy required, currently poorly worded

Vogue also uses its industry clout for good causes, most recently with the Fashion Night Out annual event. Also the brainchild of Wintour, FNO was launched in 2009 to kick start the economy by encouraging people to start spending money again. The proceeds of sales on the night go towards various charitable causes. The event is co-hosted by Vogue publications in 27 cities around the US and 15 countries worldwide, and from 2011 will include online retailers.

Vogue uses fashion, editorial and community projects to raise awareness of issues on the current political agenda. The burqa, for instance, made an appearance in a fashion spread in Vogue in 2006 and the publication has featured articles on prominent Muslim women, their approach to fashion and the effect of different cultures on fashion and women’s lives. In the “Beauty Without Borders” initiative, Vogue sponsored a project to teach beauty skills to Afghan women.

below: this seems weak / vaguely biased? 

Another way in which Vogue exerts its influence is by starting new titles in emerging economies such as Russia. Started in 1998, Vogue Russia has set about introducing Russian women to a new world of fashion and opportunities in a post-Socialist society. When Vogue starts a new title in an emerging economy, it indicates that the society has undergone, “a change in the politics of style, imagery, gender representations, and consumption practices.”

Criticism

Main article: The Devil Wears Prada (novel)

below: Can this be framed as more about vogue?

As Wintour came to personify the magazine's image, she and Vogue drew critics. Wintour's one-time assistant at the magazine, Lauren Weisberger, wrote a roman à clef entitled The Devil Wears Prada. Published in 2003, the novel became a bestseller and was adapted as a highly successful, Academy Award-nominated film in 2006. The central character resembled Weisberger, and her boss was a powerful editor-in-chief of a fictionalized version of Vogue. The novel portrays a magazine ruled by "the Antichrist and her coterie of fashionistas, who exist on cigarettes, Diet Dr. Pepper, and mixed green salads", according to a review in the New York Times. The editor is described by Weisberger as being "an empty, shallow, bitter woman who has tons and tons of gorgeous clothes and not much else". The success of both the novel and the film brought new attention from a wide global audience to the power and glamour of the magazine, and the industry it continues to lead.

In 2007, Vogue drew criticism from the anti-smoking group, "Campaign for Tobacco-Free Kids", for carrying tobacco advertisements in the magazine. The group claims that volunteers sent the magazine more than 8,000 protest emails or faxes regarding the ads. The group also claimed that in response, they received scribbled notes faxed back on letters that had been addressed to editor Anna Wintour stating, "Will you stop? You're killing trees!"

A spokesperson for Condé Nast released an official statement stating that, "Vogue does carry tobacco advertising. Beyond that we have no further comment."

In April 2008, the American Vogue had a cover shot by the famed photographer Annie Leibovitz, featuring the supermodel Gisele Bündchen and the basketball superstar LeBron James. This was the third time that Vogue featured a male on the cover of the American issue (the other two men were the actors George Clooney and Richard Gere), and the first in which the man was black. Some observers criticized the cover as a prejudicial depiction of James because his pose with Bündchen was reminiscent of a poster for the film King Kong. Further criticism arose when the website Watching the Watchers analyzed the photo alongside the World War I recruitment poster titled Destroy This Mad Brute. James reportedly however liked the cover shoot.

In February 2011, just before the 2011 Syrian protests unfolded, Vogue published a controversial piece by Joan Juliet Buck on Asma al-Assad, wife of the Syrian president Bashar al-Assad. A number of journalists criticized the article as glossing over the poor human rights record of Bashar al-Assad. It has been reported that the Syrian government paid the U.S. lobbying firm Brown Lloyd James $5,000 per month to arrange for and manage the article.

Other editions

In 2005, Condé Nast launched Men's Vogue and announced plans for an American version of Vogue Living launching in late fall of 2006 (there is currently an edition in Australia). Men's Vogue ceased publication as an independent publication in October 2008 and is now a twice-yearly extract in the main edition.

Condé Nast also publishes Teen Vogue, a version of the magazine for teen girls, the Seventeen demographic, in the United States. South Korea and Australia has a Vogue Girl magazine (currently suspended from further publication), in addition to Vogue Living and Vogue Entertaining + Travel.

Vogue Hommes International is an international men's fashion magazine based in Paris, France, and L'uomo Vogue is the Italian men's version. Other Italian versions of Vogue include Vogue Casa and Bambini Vogue.

Until 1961, Vogue was also the publisher of Vogue Patterns, a home sewing pattern company. It was sold to Butterick Publishing which also licensed the Vogue name. Vogue China was launched in September 2005 with Australian supermodel Gemma Ward on the cover, flanked by Chinese models. In 2007 an Arabic edition of Vogue was rejected by Condé Nast International. October 2007 saw the launch of Vogue India, and Vogue Turkey was launched in March 2010.

On 5 March 2010, 16 International Editors-in-chief of Vogue met in Paris to discuss the 2nd Fashion's Night Out. Present in the meeting were the 16 International editors-in-chief of Vogue: Anna Wintour (American Vogue), Emmanuelle Alt (French Vogue), Franca Sozzani (Italian Vogue), Alexandra Shulman (British Vogue), Kirstie Clements (Australian Vogue), Aliona Doletskaya (Russian Vogue), Angelica Cheung (Chinese Vogue), Christiane Arp (German Vogue), Priya Tanna (Indian Vogue), Rosalie Huang (Taiwanese Vogue), Paula Mateus (Portuguese Vogue), Seda Domanic (Turkish Vogue), Yolanda Sacristan (Spanish Vogue), Eva Hughes (Mexican Vogue), Mitsuko Watanabe (Japanese Vogue), and Daniela Falcao (Brazilian Vogue).

It was the very first time where all the international editors-in-chief of Vogue come together, as it is very hard to put them in one room together. All of the International editors-in-chief of Vogue, except for Anna Wintour, then dined together at the famous Parisian restaurant, Prunier, hosted by Condé Nast International Chairman Jonathan Newhouse and his wife Ronnie Newhouse.

Since 2010, 7 new editors-in-chief joined Vogue, First is Victoria Davydova, who replaced Aliona Doletskaya as editor-in-chief of Russian Vogue, Emmanuelle Alt who took over French Vogue as editor-in-chief after Carine Roitfeld resigned, followed by Edwina McCann who took over Australian Vogue as editor-in-chief after Kirstie Clements was unceremoniously fired, and Kelly Talamas replaced Eva Hughes at Vogue Mexico and Vogue Latin America when Hughes was named CEO of Condé Nast Mexico and Latin America in 2012. Then Karin Swerink, Kullawit Laosukrsi, and Masha Tsukanova were appointed editors-in-chief of newly launch Vogues Netherlands, Thailand, and Ukraine respectively.

Regional and national editions

• Vogue (United States, 1892)
• UK (1916)
• France (1920)
• Spain (first version) (1921–1936)
• Italy (first version) (1922–1941)
• Germany (first version) (1924–1941)
• Argentina (1933–2002)
• Cuba (1934–1961)
• New Zealand (1957–1968)
• Australia (1959)
• Italy (current version) (1964)
• Brazil (1975)
• Germany (current version) (1979)
• Mexico (1980)
• Spain (current version) (1988)
• South Korea (1996)
• Taiwan (1996)
• Russia (1998)
• Latin America (1999)
• Japan (1999)
• Greece (1999–2012)
• Portugal (2002)
• China (2005)
• India (2007)
• Turkey (2010)
• Netherlands (2012)
• Thailand (2013)
• Ukraine (2013)

Media

Main article: The September Issue

In 2009, the feature-length documentary The September Issue was released; it was an inside view of the production of the record-breaking September 2007 issue of U.S. Vogue, directed by R. J. Cutler. The film was shot over eight months as editor-in-chief Anna Wintour prepared the issue. It included at times testy exchanges between Wintour and her creative director Grace Coddington. The issue became the largest ever published; over 5 pounds in weight and 840 pages in length, a world record for a monthly magazine. Since then, that record has been broken by Vogue's 2012 September issue.

In September 2012 Vogue magazine has created an issue that is 915 pages long. This issue tops the September issue of 2007 in it being the largest VOGUE issue to date. It is unknown if a second September issue movie will be made.

Voguepedia

Founded by Vogue (Condé Nast Digital), Voguepedia is a fashion encyclopedia that also includes an archive that consists of every issue of Vogue's American edition since 1892. Only Vogue staff are permitted to contribute to the encyclopedia, unlike the VogueEncyclo—hosted by Vogue Italia—that receives contributions from anyone. As of May 9, 2013, the site is not fully functional, as code still shows in search results and only certain search terms yield results.

Edition Information

The following individuals have served as editor-in-chief of Vogue:

Country	Circulation Dates	Editor-in-Chief	Start year	End year
United States	1892-present	Josephine Redding	1892	1901
		Marie Harrison	1901	1914
		Edna Woolman Chase	1914	1951
		Jessica Daves	1952	1963
		Diana Vreeland	1963	1971
		Grace Mirabella	1971	1988
		Anna Wintour	1988	present
United Kingdom	1920-present	Elspeth Champcommunal	1916	1922
		Dorothy Todd	1923	1926
		Alison Settle	1926	1934
		Elizabeth Penrose	1934	1940
		Audrey Withers	1940	1961
		Ailsa Garland	1961	1965
		Beatrix Miller	1965	1984
		Anna Wintour	1985	1987
		Liz Tilberis	1988	1992
		Alexandra Shulman	1992	present
France	1920-present	Cosette Vogel	1922	1927
		Main Bocher	1927	1929
		Michel de Brunhoff	1929	1954
		Edmonde Charles-Roux	1954	1966
		Fransçoise de Langlade	1966	1968
		Francine Crescent	1968	1987
		Colombe Pringle	1987	1994
		Joan Juliet Buck	1994	2001
		Carine Roitfeld	2001	2010
		Emmanuelle Alt	2011	Present
Cuba	1934-1961
New Zealand	1957-1968	Sheila Scotter	1957	1968
Australia	1959	Rosemary Cooper	1959	1968
		Sheila Scotter	1969
		June McCallum
		Nancy Pilcher		1996
		Marion Hume	1997	1998
		Juliet Ashworth	1998	1999
		Kirstie Clements	1999	2012
		Edwina McCann	2012	present
Italy	1922-1941, 1964-present	Franco Sartori	1966	1988
		Franca Sozzani	1988	present
Brazil	1975-present	Luiz Carta	1975	1986
		Andrea Carta	1986	2003
		Patricia Carta	2003	2010
		Daniela Falcão	2010	present
South Korea	1996-present	Myung Hee Lee	1996	present
Russia	1998-present	Aliona Doletskaya	1998	2010
		Victoria Davydova	2010	present
Mexico & Latin America	1980-present	Eva Hughes	2000	2012
		Kelly Talamas	2012	present
China	2005-present	Angelica Cheung	2005	present
India	2007-present	Priya Tanna	2007	present
Turkey	2010-present	Seda Domaniç	2010	present
Netherlands	2012-present	Karin Swerink	2012	present
Thailand	2013-present	Kullawit Laosuksri	2013	present
Ukraine	2013-present	Masha Tsukanova	2013	present
Spain	1921-1936, 1988-present	Yolanda Sacristán	1983	present
Germany	1924-1941, 1979-present	Christine Arp		present
Taiwan	1996-present	Sky Wu		present
Argentina	1993-2002
Japan	1999-present	Hiromi Sogo	1999
		Mitsuko Watanabe		present
Greece	1999-2012	Elena Makris	1999	2012
Portugal	2002-present