Bearded dragons as pets

Pogona
Eastern Bearded Dragon (Pogona barbata)
Scientific classification
Kingdom:	Animalia
Phylum:	Chordata
Class:	Reptilia
Order:	Squamata
Suborder:	Iguania
Family:	Agamidae
Subfamily:	Agaminae
Genus:	Pogona
Species
Pogona barbata Pogona henrylawsoni Pogona microlepidota Pogona minima Pogona minor Pogona mitchelli Pogona nullarbor Pogona vitticeps

Bearded Dragon is the common name for any agamid lizard in the genus Pogona. Bearded Dragons are popular exotic pets in many places, notably the species Pogona vitticeps, the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. These pets are also affectionately called "Beardies" by those who breed or raise them.

Characteristics

An Eastern Bearded Dragon displaying its beard

Bearded Dragons have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults reaching approximately 18 to 24 inches head-to-tail . When threatened, they will expand a spiny pouch under their jaw and turn it black, as well as inhale air and puff up to make them appear larger. The pouch resembles a beard, lending the animal their name. Males are often slightly larger than females, with a broader head in proportion to their bodies, but females are often slightly more heavily set. Bearded Dragons have a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales) radiating horizontally from the head to the base of the tail. Their color ranges from light tan to dark brown, depending on their native soil, often with highlights of black, brilliant red, or gold, and can change somewhat depending upon their internal condition. Some captive populations have been selectively bred for more brilliant colorations. As juveniles, they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are more terrestrial, but will climb to bask and search for prey. Bearded Dragons can occupy a large range of habitats from the desert to dry forests and scrublands

Distribution and life span

All species are from Australia, but they have been exported worldwide and bred successfully in captivity. In the wild, the various species are widely distributed throughout different regions of Australia. Bearded Dragons live about 10-15 years with proper care in captivity, though some can live up to 20 years old.

Diet

Bearded Dragons are opportunistic omnivores. Many Bearded Dragon habitats are dry and sparsely vegetated, so food may often be difficult to find. As a result, Bearded Dragons are capable of subsisting on a wide variety of food sources.

Their stomachs are large enough to accommodate large quantities of food. At a young age, Bearded Dragons will not to eat as much vegetation as their adult counterparts. As a Bearded Dragon ages it will eat less animal matter and more plants, leveling off at around an 80% plant and 20% animal diet.

Bearded Dragons as pets

Due largely to their animated and highly social behavior, mild temperament, willingness to breed in captivity, flexible diet, and robust nature, Bearded Dragons are popular among reptile enthusiasts as pets.

Feeding

Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, requiring both insects and vegetable food. A typical diet for captive Bearded Dragons includes ample quantities of leafy greens and vegetables, and regular meals of feeder insects.

Popular feeder insects include crickets, roaches, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, and phoenix worms. The mealworm has a fairly hard chitin (exoskeleton) and is generally low in the "chitin to meat" ratio, making it less nutritious than other feeder insects. Chitin is hard enough that large amounts of it can compact Bearded Dragon's digestion system, and can lead to death, especially in younger animals. Waxworms can be given as a treat, but no more than 1 or 2 a week in most cases as they are extremely fatty, and in some cases very addictive. The rule of thumb on feeder insects is that the food fed to the animal must not be larger than the space between the eyes; feeding something larger could make it hard for the animal to swallow the food and can lead to the aforementioned fatal impaction.

A significant portion of the Bearded Dragon's diet must consist of leafy greens. Dragons enjoy many types of readily available greens, including: collard greens, escarole, turnip greens, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, parsley, kale, and carrot tops. It is also recommended that this portion of the Dragon's diet be supplemented with a variety of finely diced fruits, vegetables, and legumes. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion. As with insects, however, certain plants can be toxic to Dragons. The Avocado and Rhubarb are highly deadly to Dragons, as well as particular greens; iceberg lettuce, as an example, causes diarrhea and dehydrates the animal, while spinach binds calcium and can lead to Metabolic Bone Disease, or MBD.

Before being offered to the Dragon, it is recommended that insects be fed for at least 24 hours in advance, or "gut-loaded" to increase their nutritional value. Commercial cricket foods for gut-loading are available, but many household food items may be used instead, such as a half a slice of potato. Insects caught in the wild are not recommended, due to the increased risk of pesticide exposure and parasites, and fireflies are fatal to Bearded Dragons, and all other animals with bioluminescence chemicals. It is also highly recommended that any insects being fed to the lizard first be dusted with a phosphorus-free commercial calcium supplement, as Bearded Dragons are susceptible to MBD if their calcium and vitamin D3 requirements are not met.

Housing

A 20 gallon (75 litre) aquarium is the bare minimum for a juvenile Bearded Dragon, however they will fast outgrow this within their first year. For an adult the minimum is a 40 gallon breeder, though many breeders recommend a 55 gallon breeder instead. This allows the Dragon ample space to turn around, lie down, and run to and fro as it chooses.

Bearded Dragons bask most of the day, absorbing the heat they need to digest their food. It is important that there are at least one or two good basking spots in the Dragon's habitat. Rocks are preferable to logs as they hold heat better, though logs can also provide stimulation for the animal as they will climb up and down it. Any item taken from the outside must first be boiled or baked, however, to remove contaminants. Electric or battery powered heating devices such as HotRocks™ can cause stomach burns if they malfunction, so they are not widely recommended. A habitat should also include something the Dragon can hide under.

Bearded Dragons also need proper lighting. A UVB light is needed, with two options being available, Fluorescent strip bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs. These bulbs will need to be kept within 8 inches of the basking spot so your lizard can properly absorb the rays and need to be replaced every 6 months. Without a good UVB the Dragon will develop MBD and not eat as much. A Dragon needs between 12 and 14 hours of daylight; much less or more causes problems with their circadian rhythms and makes them lethargic and sick

For heating, Bearded Dragons need bright white light during the day. At night a red light can be used, as it will provide heat and you will be able to see it, but it will not disturb the animal's sleep cycle. Under tank heaters are one option for keeping the tank warm at night when the heating lamp is off, while ceramic heat emitters are another.

Temperature is one of the most important health factors. A Dragon needs the correct temperature to digest, so a good thermometer is essential. Analog, Round, stick-on, and other non-digital thermometers do not measure basking temperature properly as they do not measure the actual basking spot, just the temperature of the air or glass. A digital thermometer with a probe or an Infrared thermometer are two recommended types of thermometers. Temps need to be 95-110 during day and 60-80 at night (the higher end of this range for babies, the lower portion of the range for adult Dragons). If the dragons do not receive the proper heat they will become lethargic, and they will eat less. Eventually the lack of proper heating will become fatal.

Substrate is another very important factor in keeping a healthy Dragon. Babies and Juveniles are often kept on paper towels, as they are easy to dispose of and clean up after. Tile is another popular choice, as is reptile carpet. As the Dragon gets older is can be put on finely sifted play or calcium sand. However some owners won't put their adults Dragons on that, because sand can be ingested and cause impaction. Walnut shells, wood chips, and anything else of that sort are never to be used. They are large, with sharp edges, and can be swallowed. They are not digestible, however, and will cause a very painful fatal impaction.

Personality

Bearded Dragons are known to be very docile and trusting, yet at the same time, outgoing and curious lizards. Their behaviour includes body language such as head bobbing and leg waving. It is not recommended to try and arouse this behaviour, however, as it is territorial in nature.

Pogona vitticeps is one of the more docile and friendly lizard species in the lizard pet trade. Unlike many large Monitor lizards and smaller lizards like Anoles, Bearded Dragons tend to enjoy human contact and to be handled by humans. They rarely bite, scratch, or otherwise attack a human. As a result, Bearded Dragons are a suitable reptile for a house with children.

Generally, it is advised to never keep any Dragons housed together. While they may stay friendly towards each other for a time, one will always get more food or the better basking spot. They will nip at each other, causing the loss of toes or even the end of the tail. Some of this can be worked around by having a larger tank and feeding the Dragons separately, such as in a feeder tank outside of the main one.

Dragons also will brumate, a period similar to a mammal's hibernation. The animal will become lethargic and not come out that often, eating less and less. It's often a concern to those unfamiliar with it, as lethargy and lessened appetite usually mean illness. When brumation starts to happen, it's suggested to go to a veterinarian with a fresh fecal sample for inspection for illness and parasites.

Breeding

Due to selective breeding, Dragons have begun to exhibit rather distinctive colorations. These "designer" Dragons display brilliant hues of pastel oranges, violets, and reds. The most popular morph thus far has been the "Sand Fire" Dragon, which exhibits a bright red-orange color with black stripes. A more unusual sub-breed is the leatherback, and another of that is the silk-back. These Dragons have reduced or no scales respectively, creating a smoother appearance to the Dragon. Much like designer dogs, the price tags of these customized pets are many times the price of Dragons without a specific morph.

To sex a Dragon, one must hold the tail up and look above the cloaca, also known as the vent. Males have two hemipenal bulges just above it, creating an hourglass shaped indent. Females have only a single lump. Males are also known to have large femoral pores along the inner thigh. Dragons can lay up to 50 eggs a clutch. Females have been known to eat the eggs that were not fertilized or stillborn.

Diseases

When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures, and UVB lighting, Bearded Dragons are hardy lizards. They are also pets who do their best to hide health problems when becoming ill (as do most reptiles). This is probably an instinctual behavior, since a sick Dragon in the wild would probably not live long. The most common diseases they get are: mites, terminal ingestion, thermal burns, calcium deficiency, impaction, hypovitaminosis A, respiratory infections, dehydration, stomatitis, internal parasites, coccidia and other parasites, dystocia (egg binding), and MBD.

Gallery

• 
  Central/Inland Bearded Dragon at the Henry Doorly Zoo
• 
  From central NSW.
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  Pogona vitticeps
• 
  Young Pogona vitticeps
• Bearded Dragon picture
  Bearded Dragon picture
• 
  Group of Inland Bearded Dragons basking on a rock at the Indianapolis Zoo's desert exhibit.
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  Two domestic Bearded Dragons basking on a log
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  Female Bearded Dragon gaping to dissipate excess heat while basking
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  A male bearded dragon basking under a lamp, enjoying the heat.
• 
  Bearded dragons at Brisbane Forest Park in Queensland, Australia

External links

• Bearded Dragons caresheet
• Bearded Dragons forum
• Discussion, Community, and Information