Gothic Lolita

Two girls in frilly, somewhat extreme "Lolita" dress that was popular around 2002 in Takeshita Street, Tokyo

Gothic Lolita or "GothLoli" (ゴスロリ, gosurori, sometimes alternatively (though incorrectly) "Loli-Goth") has two definitions. The term "Gothic and Lolita" is used by the Japanese to describe a sub-culture of teenagers who wear a wide range of fashions. It is used by English language sources mainly to describe a specific subset of Lolita fashion.

History of terminology used by English language fandom

Among English language fandom, the term Elegant Gothic Lolita was originally used to describe a sub-set of Lolita fashion that was either all black, or mostly black with white accents. Eventually, it was determined that phrase only refers to Mana's specific brand. The term Gothic Lolita or Gothloli was then used to describe this same fashion style. However, the term Gothloli is used in Japan to describe the entire subculture, and includes non-lolita style fashion. It is said that Mana (musician from Malice Mizer) to be it's figurehead and creator, as he help to popularize it.

The style

Lolita fashion draws much of its inspiration from Rococo, Victorian-style and Edwardian fashion and often aims to imitate the look of Victorian porcelain dolls. Gothic Lolita applies the aesthetics of Gothic fashion to the childlike, pretty Lolita fashion. The word Gothloli comes, quite naturally, from a combination of Lolita and Gothic fashion.

Gothic Lolita is the best-known of the various "Lolita" looks. Other categories include "Classic Lolita", which is often more mature-looking and contains more muted colors and floral prints and "Sweet Lolita" which is identified by childish pastel colors and cute prints.

Gothic Lolita style is usually a combination of black and white, often black with white lace and typically decorated with ribbons and lace trims. Skirts are knee length and may have a crinoline or petticoat to add volume. As in mainstream Japanese fashion, over-knee socks or stockings are popular. White or black tights are also common. Child-like shoes or boots such as Mary Janes complete the look. Frilly, ruffled or lace-trimmed Victorian blouses are also popular with Gothic Lolitas and designs are usually modest, sometimes with long lace-capped sleeves and/or high-necked blouses.

Some additions may include mini top hats, parasols, and lace headdresses, which resemble wide, elegantly decorated headbands. Other popular Lolita headgear are ribbons, lace or bows, an alice band with a bow or sometimes even a bonnet. Hair is sometimes curled, or a curled wig is worn to complete the porcelain doll look. Blonde and black are the most popular hair colors, though as the fashion continues to develop, other colors (such as brown and red) are increasing in popularity.

Lolita outfits may be accessorized with other props like handbags, small backpacks and purses, sometimes in the shape of bats, coffins, and crucifixes, as well as conspicuous pocket books, pocket watches, and hat boxes. Teddy bears and other stuffed animals are also common, and some brands make special "gothic" teddy bears out of black leather or PVC. Some Lolitas own Super Dollfies or other ball-jointed dolls and carry them when wearing the style, often going so far as to dress them to match.

History

The Lolita style is widely considered to have originated sometime around 1989 from the brand Milk (other popular brands, such as Metamorphose, appeared in 1993) and became more widely available in various boutiques and some major department stores by 2001. Some observers consider it a reaction to the "Kogal" subculture of Shibuya, though this assertion is considered by many to be false. The popularity of Lolita peaked around 2004 and 2005 in Tokyo, but is still widely recognized as one of many "alternative" youth fashions present in that area. The subculture's popularity outside Tokyo is still slowly rising or at its peak in many areas, especially overseas.

Mana, the former leader and guitarist of the visual kei themed band Malice Mizer, is widely credited for having helped popularize Gothic Lolita, though he is not a founder of the style. He coined the terms "Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL) and "Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label Moi-même-Moitié, which was founded in 1999. Other influential figures in the scene include the singer Kana, who often modeled for Lolita related fashion magazines, and Mitsukazu Mihara, who drew the first eight covers of the Gothic & Lolita Bible.

"Lolita"

Although "Lolita" is a reference to Vladimir Nabokov's famous novel, and Lolita is often worn by teens, followers of the style do not consider it overtly sexual. In fact, in Japan, many Lolitas were unaware of the connection to the book until it was introduced to them in the Gothic & Lolita Bible as a suggested read. Instead, adherents present themselves as children or traditional porcelain dolls and consider it necessary to look "cute," "beautiful," or "elegant" rather than "sexy." Some people object to the style, finding the child-like look on a teen or adult immature or even offensive, but Lolitas defend their choice of clothing as modest and elegant, and therefore far less offensive than some clothes that their peers choose to wear on a daily basis.

Japanese culture places a higher value upon extremely youthful appearance and behavior, and some adult women buy large amounts of products, such as Hello Kitty goods, that are typically marketed only to children abroad. Lolita is possibly a more visible extension of this phenomenon.

Gothic Lolita culture

In Japan it is mass-marketed, though not widely worn, but has visibility particularly in the streets of Tokyo and Osaka, on television, in manga (see Paradise Kiss) and computer games. The fashion is being picked up worldwide, thanks to the foreign publication of Japanese magazine anthology FRUiTS, where the outstanding style actually blends in with the other quirky teen trends in Japan. More "faithful" adherents to the style take many influences from the Rococo and Victorian periods of European history, believing it to be in the nature of a Lolita to be respectful, polite, and demure at all times; even less extreme adherents are often known to attempt to cultivate interest in hobbies or activities considered appropriate to high-society ladies during these periods, such as needlework, opera, classical and baroque styles of music, painting, sewing, and the traditional observance of high tea. For the most part, however, most Lolitas live a day-to-day life very similar to any average person.

Lolita outside of Japan

Outside of Japan, the Lolita fashion is still a widely unknown; however, it has slowly begun to spread to other countries. Lolita, along with cosplay and other Japanese cultural phenomena, can sometimes be seen at concerts and anime conventions throughout the UK, Australia, France, Holland (Daphne) and the United States, although certain individuals truly committed to the fashion will confirm that Gothic Lolita is not a fancy dress costume, rather, a way of life. The style has not yet been mass marketed outside of Japan, though small, web-run stores based outside of Japan are starting to emerge. Major brands, such as Metamorphose temps de fille, Baby, The Stars Shine Bright and Funhouse, have recognized the international recognition of lolita fashion, and have begun to ship goods to the international market. This is still not very widespread, as many of the clothes produced by non-Japanese designers are not accepted by the Lolita community for being inaccurately portraying the style as related to the British 'goth' or French maid look, and not as high quality as the expensive Japanese brand clothes. Lolita magazines are widely available for purchase on the internet and at Japanese bookstores, which also deal in anime and manga.

Shopping

Currently the commercial center of the Gothic Lolita subculture is the Marui Young department store in Shinjuku, after its predecessor Marui One closed at the end of August 2004. This large youth-fashion oriented department store has 4 floors entirely devoted to Gothloli and related fashions. Some Gothloli boutiques may be found in the area between Harajuku and Shibuya.

Goth and Lolita

Lolita as a fashion is not as strongly associated with a particular style of music or outside interests as Goth, and individual followers of Lolita fashion may listen to a wide variety of music including regular pop and rock.

In Japan, Goth is a minor subculture with few followers, partly because the emphasis upon visual identity in Japanese youth culture makes other factors such as music and literature less important signifiers and perhaps partly because Christianity is not integral parts of society. In Japan, people who have heard the term "Goth" usually assume that it is simply a contraction of "Gothic Lolita", except for the Goths themselves, who strongly emphasize the differences. Likewise, some non-Japanese observers assume that "Gothic Lolita" is the Japanese version of "Goth", purely on the similarities in fashion.

Previously in Tokyo, the largest "goth" club events, such as "Tokyo Dark Castle", would also attract a noticeable proportion of Gothic Lolita customers. However, since 2005 their numbers have dwindled and such events now primarily attract more typical goth, industrial and metal music fans. Concerts of visual kei themed bands are often attended by many Lolitas, but conversely, few goths.

Anime and Manga

Gothic Lolita costumes appear frequently in anime art. Wikipe-tan appears here as an example of this.

More often than not, "Lolita" in anime and manga is generally cosplay and thus, not actual Lolita fashions.

Some prominent manga and anime featuring Gothic Lolita fashion are Paradise Kiss, Coyote Ragtime Show, Le Portrait de Petit Cossette, Le Chevalier d'Eon, Rozen Maiden, Godchild, Tsukuyomi - Moon Phase, Othello, xxxHolic, Trinity Blood, Pitaten, Vampire Knight, many of the works of Kaori Yuki, and all of the works of Mitsukazu Mihara.

The 2006 anime, Yamato Nadeshiko Shichi Henge, also known as The Wallflower, features four sisters who attend the high school of the main characters, who are called the Goth Loli sisters (Lassine, Madeline, Roxanne, and Yvone). They are depicted purely as the subject of much comedy and they always leave the scene chanting "Goth! Goth! Loli! Loli!"

In some manga, such as Othello, lolita fashion is portrayed as a method of individualizing and becoming less shy. Most of these titles appeal primarily to male fans rather than the lolitas themselves; however, large numbers of lolita girls are visible at manga events such as Comiket. They often buy doujinshi based upon their favorite bands, dolls and movie characters; and some are interested in other kinds of dressing, including cosplay. However, the Gothic Lolita style should not be considered a cosplay, it is an alternative fashion.

Most lolitas, especially those who wear the style on a daily basis, state that "we say we're not cosplay, but they don't listen. Of course we're not happy, but there's nothing we can do about it." (translated from the 2ch lolita fashion messageboard introduction) The comments of this style being cosplay is usually from the otaku who only know of this fashion through anime and manga.

The Marvel Comics miniseries Livewires features a Life Model Decoy that calls herself "Gothic Lolita." "Lol" picked up the fashion while on a mission in Japan. She is described by one of her teammates as liking the idea of being the team's "Ben Grimm in black baby doll lace," Lol minimalistically describes her role as "smashing and bashing duty."

External links

• Livejournal EGL - The biggest Lolita fashion community on the internet.
• Lolita Handbook - Your #1 guide for Lolita fashion done CORRECTLY.
• Lolitapedia.com - Detailed fashion list with stolen scans and text, garments, Gosurori and more. Your basic ripoff site.
• A detailed list of Lolita Fashion styles with photos.