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'''Dan Mazur''' is a climber, trekker and expedition leader who has ascended nine of the world's highest summits, including [[Mount Everest]] and [[K2]]. In addition he is known for several high altitude mountain rescues: |
'''Dan Mazur''' is a climber, trekker, and expedition leader who has ascended nine of the world's highest summits, including [[Mount Everest]] and [[K2]]. In addition, he is known for several high altitude mountain rescues: the 1991 rescue of Roman Giutashvili from Mount Everest, the rescue of [[Gary Ball]] from K2 in 1992, the rescue in 2006 of Australian climber [[Lincoln Hall (climber)|Lincoln Hall]] from Mount Everest, and the rescue of British mountaineer Rick Allen from [[Broad Peak]]. In 2018, Daniel Mazur was awarded the [[Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal]] "for remarkable service in the conservation of culture and nature in mountainous regions."<ref name=hm>{{cite web |url=https://www.hillarymedal.com/medal2018dm.html |title=Dan Mazur tapped for tenth Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal |author=<!--Not stated--> |date= |website=Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal |publisher=Mountain Legacy |access-date=12 June 2020 }}</ref> |
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== Roman Giutashvili rescue == |
== Roman Giutashvili rescue == |
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Revision as of 19:22, 11 May 2022
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Daniel Lee Mazur | |
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| Born | 15 October 1960 Illinois |
| Nationality | American - British |
| Education | PhD, Brandeis University, Heller School University of the West of England, Bristol BSW University of Montana Certified Diesel Mechanic, Missoula Vocational Technical College |
| Occupation | Mountain Climber |
| Known for | Mountain Climbing Rick Allen Rescue 2018 Lincoln Hall rescue in 2006 |
Dan Mazur is a climber, trekker, and expedition leader who has ascended nine of the world's highest summits, including Mount Everest and K2. In addition, he is known for several high altitude mountain rescues: the 1991 rescue of Roman Giutashvili from Mount Everest, the rescue of Gary Ball from K2 in 1992, the rescue in 2006 of Australian climber Lincoln Hall from Mount Everest, and the rescue of British mountaineer Rick Allen from Broad Peak. In 2018, Daniel Mazur was awarded the Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal "for remarkable service in the conservation of culture and nature in mountainous regions."[1]
Roman Giutashvili rescue
Having reached the summit of Mount Everest on an expedition together with Anatoli Boukreev in 1991, Mazur was involved in an early rescue of Georgian climber Roman Giutashvili from just below the summit of Everest.[2]
Gary Ball rescue
In 1992 on K2, Mazur and his team worked together to rescue Gary Ball from 8300 metres. Gary was struck down by a pulmonary embolism. The rescue took several days, descending technical ground, and rescuers included Rob Hall, Scott Fischer, Ed Viesturs, Neal Beidleman and Jon Pratt [3]
Lincoln Hall rescue
At 7:30 am on May 26, 2006, Mazur and his fellow ascending climbers Andrew Brash (Canada), Myles Osborne (UK) and Jangbu Sherpa (Nepal) were eight hours into their planned ascent to the summit up the North Ridge of Mount Everest, located along a severe ridge line, dropping off 10,000 feet to one side and 7,000 feet to the other. Two hours below the summit, conditions seemed perfect. There was no wind and no clouds and they were feeling strong and healthy.
When rounding a corner on the trail to the summit the team encountered Lincoln Hall, an Australian climber at an altitude of approximately 28,000 feet. Hall had been 'left for dead' by his own expedition team on the descent from the summit the previous day at around 8600 meters on Everest after collapsing, failing to respond to prolonged treatment and being unable to walk. He was now sitting alone on the trail with his jacket around his waist, no hat and no gloves, and without any of the proper equipment for survival in such conditions. The group found he was suffering from symptoms of cerebral oedema, frostbite and dehydration as he was hallucinating, mumbling deliriously and appeared generally incoherent in his responses to offers of help.
The rescuers replaced the hat, jacket and gloves Mr. Hall had discarded, anchored him to the mountain, and gave him their own oxygen, food and water. They radioed Hall's team, who had given him up for dead, and convinced them he was still alive and must be saved. Mr. Hall's team leader had already called his wife the night before to tell her that Hall was dead. The rescuers arranged for Sherpas from Mr. Hall's team to ascend and help with the rescue. For four hours, Mazur's team stayed to care for Mr. Hall. Phil Crampton coordinated the rescue from the high camp at 26,000 feet, and Kipa Sherpa was the liaison to Lincoln Hall's team at advance base camp at 21,000 feet.
Extended stays at extreme altitude are risky even when planned in advance and when climbers have all the supplies they need. By using their own survival supplies to sustain Hall, going to the summit after so many hours spent helping Hall was out of the question. Staying there to care for Hall, they took a risk the weather would turn for the worse and they might even not have sufficient oxygen and food to support themselves on the way down. In abandoning their own attempt on the summit in order to save Hall's life, epitomized the noblest traditions of mountaineering. Mazur said of his team abandoning their summit attempt, "The summit is still there and we can go back. Lincoln only has one life."[4]
Several print [5] as well as television documentaries [6] [7] tell the story in detail. Their actions were underscored by the death of British climber David Sharp a few days earlier, who had been abandoned by his team and other mountaineers who passed by him on their way to the summit.
Rick Allen Rescue
During the 2018 Broad Peak Expedition, Mazur and his team rescued Rick Allen, a British climber who disappeared at night near the summit and whose team mates reported him dead and descended with Rick's satellite phone. Mazur and team found Rick Allen alive and brought him down to base camp 3 days later.[8]
Community and environmental engagement
Each year Mazur leads and organizes groups of volunteers to visit, bring supplies, medicines, health care and education to the Himalayas.[9]
Climbing record
| Year | Details |
|---|---|
| 2008 | Cho Oyu, leader, summit; Service Trek, leader[10] |
| 2007 | Lhotse, leader;[11] Ama Dablam, leader, summit; Service Trek, leader |
See also
References
- ^ "Dan Mazur tapped for tenth Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal". Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal. Mountain Legacy. Retrieved 12 June 2020.
- ^ "Of Friends and Romans".
- ^ "Tales from the grave: Rescues at Altitude". Retrieved February 9, 2020.
- ^ Hibbert, Ian (2015-11-17). Alpamayo to Everest: It's Not About the Summit. Lulu Press, Inc. ISBN 9781483440736.
- ^ "Lincoln Hall Australia Everest Climber Has Passed Away - Tribute to his climbing and mountaineering career".
- ^ "Rescue on Everest of Lincon Hall, video by NBC". Archived from the original on 2021-12-21.
- ^ "Mount Everest Rescue - I Shouldn_t Be Alive". Archived from the original on 2021-12-21. Retrieved February 9, 2020.
- ^ "Karakoram Trekking and Climbing News".
- ^ "www.RemoteNepalServiceTrek.org".
- ^ "Mt Cho Oyu 2008: SummitClimb Cho Oyu Summits". Archived from the original on February 24, 2012. Retrieved October 5, 2008.
- ^ "Mt Everest 2007: SummitClimb Nepal Everest / Lhotse: Summits on Lhotse". Archived from the original on February 24, 2012. Retrieved June 22, 2007.