Jump to content

Girdle: Difference between revisions

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Content deleted Content added
 
(182 intermediate revisions by more than 100 users not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
{{Short description|Belt, esp. as a liturgical vestment}}
[[Image:JWW TheLadyOfShallot 1888.jpg|thumb|300px|[[The Lady of Shalott]], with a medieval girdle around her waist ([[John William Waterhouse]], 1888). Girdles at this time were more belt-like than today.]]
{{Other uses}}
:''This article is about the item of clothing. In [[anatomy]] it is usual to speak of the [[Pectoral girdle|shoulder or pectoral girdle]] and of the [[Pelvis|pelvic girdle]]. In the [[Scots language]], girdle refers to a [[griddle|cooking griddle]]. In [[malacology|zoology]] a girdle is part of a [[chiton]].
[[Image:Anglican priest vested in an alb, cincture and purple stole.jpg|thumb|right|A Christian ([[Anglicanism|Anglican]]) [[priest]] wearing a white girdle around his waist to hold his [[alb]] and [[Stole (vestment)|stole]] in place.]]
A [[Belt (clothing)|belt]] without a buckle, especially if a cord or rope, is called a '''girdle''' in various contexts, especially historical ones, where girdles were a very common part of everyday clothing from antiquity until perhaps the 15th century, especially for women. Most girdles were practical pieces of costume to hold other pieces in place, but some were loose and essentially for decoration. Among the elite these might include precious metals and jewels.


Today, girdles are part of Christian liturgical [[vestment]]s, and the word is used in other contexts, such as American sports (for what is really a kind of underwear).
The word '''girdle''' originally meant a belt. In modern English the term "girdle" is most commonly used for a form of women's [[Foundation garment|foundation wear]] that replaced the [[corset]] in popularity. A girdle for men is called a mirdle.

The [[Girdle (undergarment)|girdle as an undergarment]] or abbreviated [[corset]] around the waist is a different, essentially 20th-century, concept, but from around 1895 there was a fashion for "girdles" as a separate section of a fashionable dress, worn just above the waist on top of the main dress. It was typically up to about eight inches high, and often terminated in a "V" shape. It might be the same colour as the main dress or not. It differs from the earlier [[Swiss waist]] of the mid-19th century by not having lacing or boning.


==History==
==History==
[[Image:Godward - The Ring.jpg|thumb|200px|Grecian style [[tunic]] wrapped with a ''[[tainia (costume)|taenia]]'' (ribbon) girdle.|left]]
Historically and in anthropology, the girdle can be a scanty belt-shaped textile for men and/or women, worn on its own, not holding a larger garment in place, and less revealing than the [[loin-cloth]], as was used by [[Minoan civilization|Minoan]] [[pugilist]]s.
The men among the Greeks and Romans wore the girdle upon the loins, and it served them to confine the [[tunic]], and hold the purse, instead of pockets, which were unknown; girls and women wore it under the bosom. The ''[[Strophium]]'', ''[[Tainia (costume)|Taenia]]'', or ''[[Mitre|Mitra]]'' occurs in many figures. In the small bronze Pallas of the Villa Albani, and in figures on the Hamilton Vases, are three ''cordons'' with a knot, detached from two ends of the girdle, which is fixed under the bosom. This girdle forms under the breast a knot of ribbon, sometimes in the form of a rose, as occur on the two handsomest daughters of [[Niobe]]. Upon the youngest the ends of the girdle pass over the shoulders, and upon the back, as they do upon four [[Caryatid]]es found at Monte Portio. This part of the dress the ancients called, at least in the time of Isidore, ''[[wikt:succinctorium|Succinctorium]]'' or ''[[wikt:bracile|Bracile]]''.


The girdle was omitted by both sexes in mourning. Often when the tunic was very long, and would otherwise be entangled by the feet, it was drawn over the girdle in such a way as to conceal the latter entirely underneath its folds. It is not uncommon to see two girdles of different widths worn together, one very high up, the other very low down, so as to form between the two in the tunic, a puckered interval; but this fashion was mostly applied to short tunics. The tunic of the Greek males was almost always confined by a girdle.
Constructed of [[Elastomer|elasticized]] fabric and sometimes fastened with [[hook and eye]] closures, the modern girdle is designed to enhance a [[woman]]'s figure. Most open-bottom girdles extend from the waist to the upper thighs. In the 1960s, these models fell from favor and were to a great extent replaced by the panty girdle. The panty girdle resembles a tight pair of athletic shorts. Both models of girdles usually include suspender clips to hold up [[stocking]]s.


Among the [[Anglo-Saxons]], it was used by both sexes; by the men to confine their tunic, and support the sword. Some were richly embroidered, and of white leather. A leather strap was chiefly worn by [[monk]]s.<ref>{{cite book |author=Rev. Thomas D. Fosbroke |date=1843 |title=Encyclopaedia of Antiquities and Elements of Archaeology, Volume 2 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=R-8wAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA942 | publisher=London: M. A. Nattali |page=942}}</ref> Metal girdles were manufactured by [[girdler]]s.
Girdles were considered essential garments by many women from approximately 1910 to the late 1960s. They created a rigid, controlled figure that was seen as eminently respectable and modest. They were also crucial to the [[couturier]] [[Christian Dior]]'s 1947 ''New Look'', which featured a voluminous skirt and a narrow, nipped-in waistline, also known as a [[wasp waist]].


==Vestment and iconography==
[[Image:Style4321girdlePink.jpg|right|thumb|200px|A woman's girdle (in pink).]]


===Christian usage===
Later in the 1960s, the girdle was generally supplanted by [[pantyhose]]. Pantyhose replaced girdles for many women who had used the girdle essentially as a means of holding up sheer nylon stockings. Those who want more control purchase "control top" pantyhose. Many women forgo wearing girdles, stockings, and pantyhose entirely.
[[File:Accademia - Assumption of the Virgin by Palma il Vecchio.jpg|thumb|300px|In Catholic belief, the [[Girdle of Thomas]] is said to be handed down by the [[Virgin Mary]] during her [[Assumption of Mary|Assumption]]]]
{{Further|Cincture|Zone (vestment)}}
As a Christian [[liturgy|liturgical]] [[vestment]], the girdle is a long, rope-like cord tied around the waist over the [[alb]] or [[cassock]]. ''[[The Parson's Handbook]]'' describes the girdle as being made "generally of white linen rope, and may have a tassel at each end. About 12 ft. 6 in. long is a very convenient size if it is used double, one end being then turned into a noose and the tasselled ends slipped through. The girdle, however, may be coloured."<ref name="Dearmer1907">{{cite book|last=Dearmer|first=Percy|title=The Parson's Handbook|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Sp4SAAAAYAAJ|access-date=17 June 2015|year=1907|publisher=Oxford University Press|page=141}}</ref> They are used to close a [[cassock]] in [[Christian denomination]]s, including the [[Anglican Communion]], [[Catholic Church]], [[World Methodist Council|Methodist Church]] and [[Lutheran World Federation|Lutheran Church]].<ref name="Moore1996">{{cite book|last=Moore|first=Stephen E.|title=Church Words: Origins and Meanings|year=1996|publisher=Forward Movement Publications|isbn=9780880281720|page=53|quote=Generally an alb is closed with a girdle, an Anglican-style double-breasted cassock is closed with a cincture, and a Roman cassock is closed with either one.}}<!--|access-date=17 June 2015--></ref>


[[Christian monastic]]s would often hang religious texts, such as the [[Bible]] or [[Breviary]], from their girdles and these became known as [[girdle book]]s. In addition, they would often knot the ends of the girdle thrice, in order to represent the "vows of [[poverty, chastity, and obedience]]."<ref name="Moore">{{cite book|last=Moore|first=Stephen E.|title=Church Words: Origins and Meanings|year=1996|publisher=Forward Movement Publications|isbn=9780880281720|page=54|quote=Christ referred to the girdle as a symbol of preparation and readiness for service (Luke 12:35-38). St. Paul referred to it as a symbol of truth (Ephesians 6:14). The girdle of the monastic habit, knotted three times at the ends, symbolizes the three vows of poverty, chastity and obedience. The girdle became a Christian symbol of chastity, possibly derived from the ancient Jewish custom of women wearing ornate girdles symbolic of their virtue (Proverbs 31). Some traditional clergy still use an old vesting prayer when putting on the girdle which says, "Gird me, O Lord, with the girdle of purity, and quench in me the fire of concupiscence that the grace of temperance and chastity may abide in me."}}<!--|access-date=17 June 2015--></ref> As such, within the Christian Church, the girdle, in some contexts, represents chastity and within the [[Hebrew Bible]], "Proverbs 31 provides biblical reference to the ancient practice of girdle making by virtuous chaste women".<ref name="BershadMangone2011">{{cite book|last1=Bershad|first1=David|last2=Mangone|first2=Caroline|title=The Christian Travelers Guide to Italy|date=27 December 2011|publisher=Zondervan|isbn=9780310315759}}<!--|access-date=17 June 2015--></ref> In the [[New Testament]], "[[Jesus Christ|Christ]] referred to the girdle as a symbol of preparation and readiness for service ({{Bibleverse|Luke|12:35-38|KJV}})":<ref name="Moore"/>
Girdles and "body shapers" are still sold to women who want to shape their figure with a garment. Some of these garments incorporate a [[brassiere]] and thus become functionally equivalent to a corset. However, they do not incorporate boning and hence do not produce the constricted waistline characteristic of Victorian-era corsets.
{{quote|Be dressed ready for service and keep your lamps burning, like servants waiting for their master to return from a wedding banquet, so that when he comes and knocks they can immediately open the door for him. It will be good for those servants whose master finds them watching when he comes. Truly I tell you, he will dress himself to serve, will have them recline at the table and will come and wait on them. It will be good for those servants whose master finds them ready, even if he comes in the middle of the night or toward daybreak.}}
[[Saint Paul]], in {{Bibleverse|Ephesians|6:14|WNT}} also references the term, stating "Stand therefore, first fastening round you the girdle of truth and putting on the breastplate of uprightness", further buttressing the concept of the girdle as a [[Christian symbol|symbol]] of readiness.<ref name="Pink2013">{{cite book|last=Pink|first=Arthur W.|title=Practical Christianity|date=1 January 2013|publisher=Prisbrary|isbn=9788997762446|page=281}}<!--|access-date=17 June 2015--></ref> Many Christian clergy, such as Anglican priests and Methodist ministers, use the following [[Christian prayer|prayer]] when wearing the girdle:
{{quote|Gird me, O Lord, with the girdle of purity, and quench in me the fire of [[concupiscence]] that the grace of [[Temperance (virtue)#Christianity|temperance]] and chastity may abide in me.<ref name="Moore"/>}}
By the 8th century AD, the girdle became established as a [[Christian liturgy|liturgical]] vestment "in the strict sense of the word."<ref name="SmithCheetham1880">{{cite book|last1=Smith|first1=Sir William|last2=Cheetham|first2=Samuel|title=Dictionary of Christian Antiquitics|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NjoPAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA728|access-date=17 June 2015|year=1880|publisher=J.B. Burr Publishing Company|page=728|quote=It has been said that it was not till the 8th century that we meet with the girdle as an ecclesiastical vestment in the strict sense of the word.}}</ref> In 800 AD, the girdle began to be worn by Christian [[deacons]] in the [[Eastern Christianity|Eastern Church]].<ref name="MARRIOTT1868">{{cite book|last=Marriot|first=Wharton Booth|title=Vestiarium Christianum; the Origin and Gradual Development of the Dress of Holy Ministry in the Church|access-date=17 June 2015|year=1868|publisher=Rivingtons|page=213|url=https://archive.org/stream/vestiariumchris00marrgoog#page/n320/mode/2up|quote=Till, in the eighth or ninth century, the idea of an intended resemblance in detail between the Christian and Levitical vestments was first broached, the Girdle, naturally was either not worn at all (with the ''tunica talaris'' it was not necessary), or, when worn, was not visible, and was thought of only as a matter of convenience. In none of the early monuments of the West before A.D. 800, is any trace of it to be seen. But in the East we have mention of a Girdle as worn by deacons, early in the eighth century.}}</ref>


Although the general word "[[cincture]]" is sometimes used as a synonym for the girdle, liturgical manuals distinguish between the two, as the "girdle is a long cord or rope while the cincture is a wide [[sash]]. Generally an alb is closed with a girdle, an Anglican-style double-breasted cassock is closed with a cincture, and a Roman cassock is closed with either one."<ref name="Moore1996"/>
==Girdle in literature==<!-- This section is linked from [[Sir Gawain and the Green Knight]] -->
In [[literature]], girdles are often portrayed as magical, giving power and strength if worn by men, and protection if worn by women. Many scriptures in the Bible point to the use of a girdle as a means of protection. [[Ishtar]], a Babylonian Goddess, wore a fertility girdle, which, when it was removed, rendered the [[Universe]] barren. [[Hercules]] wrestled with the [[Amazons|Amazon]] queen for her girdle in his Greek myth. [[Aphrodite (from Greek mythology)]] also called [[Venus (in Roman mythology)|Venus]] also wore girdles associated with [[lechery]] in later poetry.<ref name = friedman/>


In the medieval and early modern period there are also accounts of girdles being used as a mnemonic. These would be tied or decorated with bead so that, like a rosary, each notch would remind the wearer of a particular psalm or book.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Hinde |first1=William |title=A faithfull remonstrance of the holy life and happy death of John Bruen |date=1641 |pages=55–59}}</ref> The girdle, in the 8th or 9th century, was said to resemble an ancient [[Levitical]] Jewish vestment, and in that era, was not visible.
For men a girdle was often used to hold weapons. It also gave them freedom to move in a fight, unlike other types of clothing. both of these are thought to carry the connection of power to the man's girdle in literature. For example, [[Odysseus]] wears a girdle which allows him to swim for three days straight, and a girdle worn by [[Thor]] doubles his strength.<ref name = friedman/>


The girdle, for men, symbolizes preparation and readiness to serve, and for women, represents chastity and protection;<ref name="Moore"/> it was also worn by [[laity|laypersons]] in the [[Middle Ages]], as attested in literature. For example, the [[hagiographical]] account of [[Saint George and the Dragon]] mentions the evildoer being tamed with the [[sign of the cross]] and a girdle handed to [[Saint George]] by a [[virgin]].<ref name="Indick2012">{{cite book|last=Indick|first=William|title=Ancient Symbology in Fantasy Literature: A Psychological Study|date=18 May 2012|publisher=McFarland|isbn=9780786492336|page=124|quote=The hero uses the power of Christianity, the Sign of the Cross, to wound the dragon. Then, in an interesting twist, he calls to the virgin to toss her girdle round the dragon's neck. Upon being leashed by the virgin's girdle, the once impressible dragon is tamed. It follows the princess like a meek puppy-dog. St. George and the princess lead the dragon back to the village where it terrifies the townspeople. St. George promises to slay the beast, but only if the townspeople convert to Christianity, which they quickly do.}}<!--|access-date=17 June 2015--></ref>
Later on, for women, the girdle became a sign of [[virginity]], and was often considered to have magical properties. Monsters and all types of evil are recorded as being subdued by girdles in literature, a famous one being the dragon slain by [[Saint George]]. Marriage ceremonies continued this tradition of girdles symbolizing virginity by having the husband take the wife's girdle, and [[prostitutes]] were forbidden to wear them by law in historic France. Often in literature, women are portrayed as safe from sexual or other attack when wearing a girdle, but suddenly vulnerable if it is missing or stolen.<ref name = friedman>Friedman, Albert B., and Richard H. Osberg. "Gawain's Girdle as Traditional Symbol." The Journal of American Folklore 90.357 (1977): 301-15.</ref>


===In Judaism===
Non-clothing uses in literature include Tolkien's "Girdle of Melian", a magical, protective "wall" surrounding an elven kingdom, and the metaphorical "girdle of righteousness" mentioned in the Bible, representing righteousness as a protection as well as something to be worn constantly.
A [[gartel]] is a belt worn by Jewish males, predominantly (but not exclusively) [[Hasidic Judaism|Hasidim]], during [[Jewish Prayer|prayer]]. "Gartel" is [[Yiddish]] for "belt" and is cognate with the English word "girdle". Gartels are generally very modest in appearance. Most are black, but some gartels are white. Hasidic custom requires that there be a physical divide between the heart and the genitalia during any mention of God's name. It is commonly explained that separating the upper and lower parts of the body manifests a control of the animal instincts of the person by the distinctly human intellect.


===Indian religions===
The twentieth century women's girdle attracts various references in literature, often in a disparaging way. For example, [[Marilyn French]] in her classic book, ''The Women's Room'', is very critical not only of the girdle itself, but also of the virtual compulsion to wear one, a compulsion which existed until the late 1960s. In [[John Masters]]'s ''Bhowani Junction'', once the mixed-race Victoria Jones decides to opt for an Indian rather than British persona, she rejects her girdle as a "western garment".
In the [[Vajrayana]] [[iconography]] of the ''[[Hevajra Tantra]]'', the 'girdle' (Tib.: ske rags), one of the 'Five Bone Ornaments' (aṣṭhiamudrā) symbolizes [[Amoghasiddhi]] and the 'accomplishing pristine awareness' (Kṛty-anuṣṭhāna-jñāna), one of the '[[Five Wisdoms]]' (pañca-jñāna).<ref>[[Jamgon Kongtrul|Kongtrul, Jamgön]] (author); (English translators: Guarisco, Elio; McLeod, Ingrid) (2005). ''The Treasury of Knowledge (shes bya kun la khyab pa'i mdzod). Book Six, Part Four: Systems of Buddhist Tantra, The Indestructibe Way of Secret Mantra''. Bolder, Colorado, USA: Snow Lion Publications. {{ISBN|1-55939-210-X}} (alk.paper) p.493</ref> The iconography of the girdle (or bone apron and belt <ref name="books.google.com">Beer, Robert (1999). ''The Encyclopedia of Tibetan Symbols and Motifs''. Shambhala. {{ISBN|1-57062-416-X}}. Source: [https://books.google.com/books?id=XlqeS3WjSWIC&dq=five+bone+ornaments&pg=PA318] (accessed: December 28, 2008) p.318</ref>) in Vajrayana iconography developed from one of the items of vestment adorning the [[Mahasiddha]] of the charnel grounds.


Beer (1999: p.&nbsp;318) describes the bone girdle as the 'netted bone apron and belt' as vesture of the [[Dakinis]] and [[Heruka]] of the [[Cham Dance]] and Gar Dance of [[Tibetan Buddhism]] sacred ritual dance performances:
==Eroticism==
Like its predecessor [[garment]], the [[corset]], the girdle attracts a degree of [[eroticism]]. Some men like to wear female girdles, and/or find women attractive in them. In addition, the Australian [[feminist]] writer, [[Beatrice Faust]], in her book ''Women, Sex and Pornography'' refers to a "slight but sustained feeling of [[arousal]]" when wearing a "moderately tight" girdle. The subject is discussed in the Web site [http://www.girdlezone.org Zona: The Girdle Zone].


{{Quote|The bone ornaments worn in these ritual dances are exquisitely carved – especially the netted bone apron and belt, which are commonly adorned with intricately carved images of dakinis.<ref name="books.google.com"/>}}
==Sports==
In [[American football]], a girdle is a piece of clothing that is worn under the football pants to keep the hip, thigh, and tailbone pads in place, making the process of putting on the tight [[football pants]] easier. Older girdles resembled [[chaps]], in that they covered only the front of the leg with pads, that snapped on. Modern girdles are essentially a tight pair of [[compression shorts]] with pockets for the pads. The girdle was also used in the [[Mesoamerican ballgame]] and is used in hockey ([[National Hockey League]]).


==Girdles in literature and mythology==<!-- This section is linked from [[Sir Gawain and the Green Knight]] -->
==Vestment and iconography==
[[File:Nicolaes Knüpfer - Hercules Obtaining the Girdle of Hyppolita - WGA12217.jpg|left|thumb|''Hercules Obtaining the Girdle of Hippolyta'' ([[Nikolaus Knüpfer]], 17th century)]]
{{main|Cincture|Zone (vestment)}}
Girdles are often portrayed as magical, giving power and strength if worn by men, and protection if worn by women. Several scriptures in the [[Bible]] make use of the girdle as a symbol for readiness and preparation.
As a [[liturgy|liturgical]] [[vestment]], the girdle, also known as a [[cincture]], is a long, rope-like cord tied around the waist over the [[alb]]. In the [[Vajrayana]] [[iconography]] of the ''[[Hevajra Tantra]]'', the 'girdle' (Tib.: ske rags), one of the 'Five Bone Ornaments' (aṣṭhiamudrā) symbolizes [[Amoghasiddhi]] and the 'accomplishing pristine awareness' (Kṛty-anuṣṭhāna-jñāna), one of the '[[Five Wisdoms]]' (pañca-jñāna).<ref>[[Jamgon Kongtrul|Kongtrul, Jamgön]] (author); (English translators: Guarisco, Elio; McLeod, Ingrid) (2005). ''The Treasury of Knowledge (shes bya kun la khyab pa’i mdzod). Book Six, Part Four: Systems of Buddhist Tantra, The Indestructibe Way of Secret Mantra''. Bolder, Colorado, USA: Snow Lion Publications. ISBN 1-55939-210-X (alk.paper) p.493</ref> The iconography of the girdle (or bone apron and belt <ref>Beer, Robert (1999). ''The Encyclopedia of Tibetan Symbols and Motifs''. Shambhala. ISBN 157062416X. Source: [http://books.google.com/books?id=XlqeS3WjSWIC&pg=PA318&lpg=PA318&dq=five+bone+ornaments&source=web&ots=iHTrcO_XxH&sig=ZLDeYDENDtORvAwkG-U70snR3-I&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=1&ct=result] (accessed: December 28, 2008) p.318</ref>) in Vajrayana iconography developed from one of the items of vestment adorning the [[Mahasiddha]] of the charnel grounds.


In [[Greek mythology]], both men and women were described as wearing girdles. [[Hephaestus]] gifted his wife [[Aphrodite]] with a [[Girdle of Aphrodite|girdle]] that made the wearer irresistible to others, which [[Hera]] used to seduce [[Zeus]] in the ''[[Iliad]]''.<ref name="friedman" /> For his ninth [[Labours of Hercules|labor]], [[Heracles]] was sent to obtained the girdle of [[Hippolyta]], queen of the [[Amazons]]. Men were with wearing girdles. In the ''[[Odyssey]]'', [[Leucothea]] gives [[Odysseus]] a girdle, which allows him to swim for three days straight.
Beer (1999: p.318) describes the bone girdle as the 'netted bone apron and belt' as vesture of the [[Dakinis]] and [[Heruka]] of the [[Cham Dance]] and Gar Dance of [[Tibetan Buddhism]] sacred ritual dance performances:
<blockquote>
The bone ornaments worn in these ritual dances are exquisitely carved - especially the netted bone apron and belt, which are commonly adorned with intricately carved images of dakinis.<ref>Beer, Robert (1999). ''The Encyclopedia of Tibetan Symbols and Motifs''. Shambhala. ISBN 157062416X. Source: [http://books.google.com/books?id=XlqeS3WjSWIC&pg=PA318&lpg=PA318&dq=five+bone+ornaments&source=web&ots=iHTrcO_XxH&sig=ZLDeYDENDtORvAwkG-U70snR3-I&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=1&ct=result] (accessed: December 28, 2008) p.318</ref>
</blockquote>


The Babylonian goddess [[Ishtar]] wore a girdle, which, when it was removed, rendered the [[universe]] barren. The Norse god [[Thor]]'s girlde [[Megingjörð]] doubled his strength.<ref name="friedman" />[[Image:John William Waterhouse - The Lady of Shalott - Google Art Project edit.jpg|thumb|300px|[[The Lady of Shalott]], with a medieval girdle around her waist ([[John William Waterhouse]], 1888)]]Later, for women, the girdle became a sign of [[virginity]], and was often considered to have magical properties. Monsters and all types of evil are recorded as being subdued by girdles in literature, a famous one being the dragon slain by [[Saint George]]. Marriage ceremonies continued this tradition of girdles symbolizing virginity by having the husband take the wife's girdle, and [[prostitutes]] were forbidden to wear them by law in historic France. Often in literature, women are portrayed as safe from sexual or other attack when wearing a girdle, but suddenly vulnerable if it is missing or stolen.<ref name = friedman>Friedman, Albert B., and Richard H. Osberg. "Gawain's Girdle as Traditional Symbol." The Journal of American Folklore 90.357 (1977): 301-15.</ref>
"a griddle is a spandex"

Non-clothing uses in literature include [[J. R. R. Tolkien|Tolkien]]'s "Girdle of Melian", a magical, protective "wall" surrounding an elven kingdom.

==Sports==
In [[American football]], what is called a girdle is worn under the football player's pants to keep the hip, thigh, and tailbone pads in place, making the process of putting on the tight football pants easier. Older girdles resembled [[chaps]], in that they covered only the front of the leg with pads, that snapped on. Modern girdles are essentially a tight pair of [[compression shorts]] with pockets for the pads. The girdle was also used in the [[Mesoamerican ballgame]] and is used in hockey ([[National Hockey League]]).

Some designs are made specifically for use in the sport of [[ringette]].

==See also==
{{Portal|Christianity|Catholicism}}
*[[Confraternities of the Cord]]
*[[Girdle of Thomas]]
*[[Girdle book]]
*[[List of animals referred to as girdled]]
*[[Kushti]] worn by Zoroastrians
*[[Himiana]] worn by Mandaeans
*[[Zone (vestment)]]


==References==
==References==
{{Reflist|2}}
<references />


==External links==
==External links==
*{{Commonscatinline|Girdles}}


{{Lutheran Divine Service}}
{{commonscat|Girdles|Girdle}}
{{CatholicMass|collapsed}}
* [http://www.girdlezone.org ZONA- The Girdle Zone] Scholarly site on girdle history
*[http://corsetinformation.com Corset Information Website]
** [http://corsetinformation.com/girdles_images_xara.html Photos of Girdles]
** [http://www.corsetinformation.com/girdles.htm More Girdles]

{{Corsetry}}
{{Corsetry}}
{{lingerie}}
{{lingerie}}


[[Category:Belts (clothing)]]
[[Category:Anglican vestments]]
[[Category:Lutheran vestments]]
[[Category:1920s fashion]]
[[Category:1930s fashion]]
[[Category:1940s fashion]]
[[Category:1950s fashion]]
[[Category:1960s fashion]]
[[Category:Corsetry]]
[[Category:Corsetry]]
[[Category:History of clothing]]
[[Category:History of clothing (Western fashion)]]
[[Category:Lingerie]]
[[Category:Lingerie]]
[[Category:Foundation garments]]
[[Category:Foundation garments]]

[[br:Stard-kof]]
[[de:Hüfthalter]]
[[eo:Gaino]]
[[fr:Gaine (lingerie)]]
[[it:Guaina (abbigliamento)]]
[[ja:ガードル]]
[[sv:Gördel]]

Latest revision as of 14:56, 24 November 2024

A Christian (Anglican) priest wearing a white girdle around his waist to hold his alb and stole in place.

A belt without a buckle, especially if a cord or rope, is called a girdle in various contexts, especially historical ones, where girdles were a very common part of everyday clothing from antiquity until perhaps the 15th century, especially for women. Most girdles were practical pieces of costume to hold other pieces in place, but some were loose and essentially for decoration. Among the elite these might include precious metals and jewels.

Today, girdles are part of Christian liturgical vestments, and the word is used in other contexts, such as American sports (for what is really a kind of underwear).

The girdle as an undergarment or abbreviated corset around the waist is a different, essentially 20th-century, concept, but from around 1895 there was a fashion for "girdles" as a separate section of a fashionable dress, worn just above the waist on top of the main dress. It was typically up to about eight inches high, and often terminated in a "V" shape. It might be the same colour as the main dress or not. It differs from the earlier Swiss waist of the mid-19th century by not having lacing or boning.

History

[edit]
Grecian style tunic wrapped with a taenia (ribbon) girdle.

The men among the Greeks and Romans wore the girdle upon the loins, and it served them to confine the tunic, and hold the purse, instead of pockets, which were unknown; girls and women wore it under the bosom. The Strophium, Taenia, or Mitra occurs in many figures. In the small bronze Pallas of the Villa Albani, and in figures on the Hamilton Vases, are three cordons with a knot, detached from two ends of the girdle, which is fixed under the bosom. This girdle forms under the breast a knot of ribbon, sometimes in the form of a rose, as occur on the two handsomest daughters of Niobe. Upon the youngest the ends of the girdle pass over the shoulders, and upon the back, as they do upon four Caryatides found at Monte Portio. This part of the dress the ancients called, at least in the time of Isidore, Succinctorium or Bracile.

The girdle was omitted by both sexes in mourning. Often when the tunic was very long, and would otherwise be entangled by the feet, it was drawn over the girdle in such a way as to conceal the latter entirely underneath its folds. It is not uncommon to see two girdles of different widths worn together, one very high up, the other very low down, so as to form between the two in the tunic, a puckered interval; but this fashion was mostly applied to short tunics. The tunic of the Greek males was almost always confined by a girdle.

Among the Anglo-Saxons, it was used by both sexes; by the men to confine their tunic, and support the sword. Some were richly embroidered, and of white leather. A leather strap was chiefly worn by monks.[1] Metal girdles were manufactured by girdlers.

Vestment and iconography

[edit]

Christian usage

[edit]
In Catholic belief, the Girdle of Thomas is said to be handed down by the Virgin Mary during her Assumption

As a Christian liturgical vestment, the girdle is a long, rope-like cord tied around the waist over the alb or cassock. The Parson's Handbook describes the girdle as being made "generally of white linen rope, and may have a tassel at each end. About 12 ft. 6 in. long is a very convenient size if it is used double, one end being then turned into a noose and the tasselled ends slipped through. The girdle, however, may be coloured."[2] They are used to close a cassock in Christian denominations, including the Anglican Communion, Catholic Church, Methodist Church and Lutheran Church.[3]

Christian monastics would often hang religious texts, such as the Bible or Breviary, from their girdles and these became known as girdle books. In addition, they would often knot the ends of the girdle thrice, in order to represent the "vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience."[4] As such, within the Christian Church, the girdle, in some contexts, represents chastity and within the Hebrew Bible, "Proverbs 31 provides biblical reference to the ancient practice of girdle making by virtuous chaste women".[5] In the New Testament, "Christ referred to the girdle as a symbol of preparation and readiness for service (Luke 12:35–38)":[4]

Be dressed ready for service and keep your lamps burning, like servants waiting for their master to return from a wedding banquet, so that when he comes and knocks they can immediately open the door for him. It will be good for those servants whose master finds them watching when he comes. Truly I tell you, he will dress himself to serve, will have them recline at the table and will come and wait on them. It will be good for those servants whose master finds them ready, even if he comes in the middle of the night or toward daybreak.

Saint Paul, in Ephesians 6:14 also references the term, stating "Stand therefore, first fastening round you the girdle of truth and putting on the breastplate of uprightness", further buttressing the concept of the girdle as a symbol of readiness.[6] Many Christian clergy, such as Anglican priests and Methodist ministers, use the following prayer when wearing the girdle:

Gird me, O Lord, with the girdle of purity, and quench in me the fire of concupiscence that the grace of temperance and chastity may abide in me.[4]

By the 8th century AD, the girdle became established as a liturgical vestment "in the strict sense of the word."[7] In 800 AD, the girdle began to be worn by Christian deacons in the Eastern Church.[8]

Although the general word "cincture" is sometimes used as a synonym for the girdle, liturgical manuals distinguish between the two, as the "girdle is a long cord or rope while the cincture is a wide sash. Generally an alb is closed with a girdle, an Anglican-style double-breasted cassock is closed with a cincture, and a Roman cassock is closed with either one."[3]

In the medieval and early modern period there are also accounts of girdles being used as a mnemonic. These would be tied or decorated with bead so that, like a rosary, each notch would remind the wearer of a particular psalm or book.[9] The girdle, in the 8th or 9th century, was said to resemble an ancient Levitical Jewish vestment, and in that era, was not visible.

The girdle, for men, symbolizes preparation and readiness to serve, and for women, represents chastity and protection;[4] it was also worn by laypersons in the Middle Ages, as attested in literature. For example, the hagiographical account of Saint George and the Dragon mentions the evildoer being tamed with the sign of the cross and a girdle handed to Saint George by a virgin.[10]

In Judaism

[edit]

A gartel is a belt worn by Jewish males, predominantly (but not exclusively) Hasidim, during prayer. "Gartel" is Yiddish for "belt" and is cognate with the English word "girdle". Gartels are generally very modest in appearance. Most are black, but some gartels are white. Hasidic custom requires that there be a physical divide between the heart and the genitalia during any mention of God's name. It is commonly explained that separating the upper and lower parts of the body manifests a control of the animal instincts of the person by the distinctly human intellect.

Indian religions

[edit]

In the Vajrayana iconography of the Hevajra Tantra, the 'girdle' (Tib.: ske rags), one of the 'Five Bone Ornaments' (aṣṭhiamudrā) symbolizes Amoghasiddhi and the 'accomplishing pristine awareness' (Kṛty-anuṣṭhāna-jñāna), one of the 'Five Wisdoms' (pañca-jñāna).[11] The iconography of the girdle (or bone apron and belt [12]) in Vajrayana iconography developed from one of the items of vestment adorning the Mahasiddha of the charnel grounds.

Beer (1999: p. 318) describes the bone girdle as the 'netted bone apron and belt' as vesture of the Dakinis and Heruka of the Cham Dance and Gar Dance of Tibetan Buddhism sacred ritual dance performances:

The bone ornaments worn in these ritual dances are exquisitely carved – especially the netted bone apron and belt, which are commonly adorned with intricately carved images of dakinis.[12]

Girdles in literature and mythology

[edit]
Hercules Obtaining the Girdle of Hippolyta (Nikolaus Knüpfer, 17th century)

Girdles are often portrayed as magical, giving power and strength if worn by men, and protection if worn by women. Several scriptures in the Bible make use of the girdle as a symbol for readiness and preparation.

In Greek mythology, both men and women were described as wearing girdles. Hephaestus gifted his wife Aphrodite with a girdle that made the wearer irresistible to others, which Hera used to seduce Zeus in the Iliad.[13] For his ninth labor, Heracles was sent to obtained the girdle of Hippolyta, queen of the Amazons. Men were with wearing girdles. In the Odyssey, Leucothea gives Odysseus a girdle, which allows him to swim for three days straight.

The Babylonian goddess Ishtar wore a girdle, which, when it was removed, rendered the universe barren. The Norse god Thor's girlde Megingjörð doubled his strength.[13]

The Lady of Shalott, with a medieval girdle around her waist (John William Waterhouse, 1888)

Later, for women, the girdle became a sign of virginity, and was often considered to have magical properties. Monsters and all types of evil are recorded as being subdued by girdles in literature, a famous one being the dragon slain by Saint George. Marriage ceremonies continued this tradition of girdles symbolizing virginity by having the husband take the wife's girdle, and prostitutes were forbidden to wear them by law in historic France. Often in literature, women are portrayed as safe from sexual or other attack when wearing a girdle, but suddenly vulnerable if it is missing or stolen.[13]

Non-clothing uses in literature include Tolkien's "Girdle of Melian", a magical, protective "wall" surrounding an elven kingdom.

Sports

[edit]

In American football, what is called a girdle is worn under the football player's pants to keep the hip, thigh, and tailbone pads in place, making the process of putting on the tight football pants easier. Older girdles resembled chaps, in that they covered only the front of the leg with pads, that snapped on. Modern girdles are essentially a tight pair of compression shorts with pockets for the pads. The girdle was also used in the Mesoamerican ballgame and is used in hockey (National Hockey League).

Some designs are made specifically for use in the sport of ringette.

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Rev. Thomas D. Fosbroke (1843). Encyclopaedia of Antiquities and Elements of Archaeology, Volume 2. London: M. A. Nattali. p. 942.
  2. ^ Dearmer, Percy (1907). The Parson's Handbook. Oxford University Press. p. 141. Retrieved 17 June 2015.
  3. ^ a b Moore, Stephen E. (1996). Church Words: Origins and Meanings. Forward Movement Publications. p. 53. ISBN 9780880281720. Generally an alb is closed with a girdle, an Anglican-style double-breasted cassock is closed with a cincture, and a Roman cassock is closed with either one.
  4. ^ a b c d Moore, Stephen E. (1996). Church Words: Origins and Meanings. Forward Movement Publications. p. 54. ISBN 9780880281720. Christ referred to the girdle as a symbol of preparation and readiness for service (Luke 12:35-38). St. Paul referred to it as a symbol of truth (Ephesians 6:14). The girdle of the monastic habit, knotted three times at the ends, symbolizes the three vows of poverty, chastity and obedience. The girdle became a Christian symbol of chastity, possibly derived from the ancient Jewish custom of women wearing ornate girdles symbolic of their virtue (Proverbs 31). Some traditional clergy still use an old vesting prayer when putting on the girdle which says, "Gird me, O Lord, with the girdle of purity, and quench in me the fire of concupiscence that the grace of temperance and chastity may abide in me."
  5. ^ Bershad, David; Mangone, Caroline (27 December 2011). The Christian Travelers Guide to Italy. Zondervan. ISBN 9780310315759.
  6. ^ Pink, Arthur W. (1 January 2013). Practical Christianity. Prisbrary. p. 281. ISBN 9788997762446.
  7. ^ Smith, Sir William; Cheetham, Samuel (1880). Dictionary of Christian Antiquitics. J.B. Burr Publishing Company. p. 728. Retrieved 17 June 2015. It has been said that it was not till the 8th century that we meet with the girdle as an ecclesiastical vestment in the strict sense of the word.
  8. ^ Marriot, Wharton Booth (1868). Vestiarium Christianum; the Origin and Gradual Development of the Dress of Holy Ministry in the Church. Rivingtons. p. 213. Retrieved 17 June 2015. Till, in the eighth or ninth century, the idea of an intended resemblance in detail between the Christian and Levitical vestments was first broached, the Girdle, naturally was either not worn at all (with the tunica talaris it was not necessary), or, when worn, was not visible, and was thought of only as a matter of convenience. In none of the early monuments of the West before A.D. 800, is any trace of it to be seen. But in the East we have mention of a Girdle as worn by deacons, early in the eighth century.
  9. ^ Hinde, William (1641). A faithfull remonstrance of the holy life and happy death of John Bruen. pp. 55–59.
  10. ^ Indick, William (18 May 2012). Ancient Symbology in Fantasy Literature: A Psychological Study. McFarland. p. 124. ISBN 9780786492336. The hero uses the power of Christianity, the Sign of the Cross, to wound the dragon. Then, in an interesting twist, he calls to the virgin to toss her girdle round the dragon's neck. Upon being leashed by the virgin's girdle, the once impressible dragon is tamed. It follows the princess like a meek puppy-dog. St. George and the princess lead the dragon back to the village where it terrifies the townspeople. St. George promises to slay the beast, but only if the townspeople convert to Christianity, which they quickly do.
  11. ^ Kongtrul, Jamgön (author); (English translators: Guarisco, Elio; McLeod, Ingrid) (2005). The Treasury of Knowledge (shes bya kun la khyab pa'i mdzod). Book Six, Part Four: Systems of Buddhist Tantra, The Indestructibe Way of Secret Mantra. Bolder, Colorado, USA: Snow Lion Publications. ISBN 1-55939-210-X (alk.paper) p.493
  12. ^ a b Beer, Robert (1999). The Encyclopedia of Tibetan Symbols and Motifs. Shambhala. ISBN 1-57062-416-X. Source: [1] (accessed: December 28, 2008) p.318
  13. ^ a b c Friedman, Albert B., and Richard H. Osberg. "Gawain's Girdle as Traditional Symbol." The Journal of American Folklore 90.357 (1977): 301-15.
[edit]
  • Media related to Girdles at Wikimedia Commons