Magnus Midtbø: Difference between revisions
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{{Short description|Norwegian rock climber}} |
{{Short description|Norwegian rock climber}} |
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{{For|the Norwegian politician|Magnus Midtbø}} |
{{For|the Norwegian politician|Magnus Midtbø (politician)}} |
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{{Infobox climber |
{{Infobox climber |
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| name = Magnus Rognan Midtbø |
| name = Magnus Rognan Midtbø |
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| nationality = |
| nationality = |
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| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1988|9|18|df=y}} |
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1988|9|18|df=y}} |
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| birth_place = [[Bergen, Norway |
| birth_place = [[Bergen]], Norway |
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| death_date = <!-- if applicable use {{death date and age|yyyy|mm|dd|1988|9|18|df=y}} --> |
| death_date = <!-- if applicable use {{death date and age|yyyy|mm|dd|1988|9|18|df=y}} --> |
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| death_place = |
| death_place = |
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*[[Bouldering]]}} |
*[[Bouldering]]}} |
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| highestgrade = |
| highestgrade = |
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| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|9a+ |
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|9a+|link=no}}<ref name=DN1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Desnivel]] | url=https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/dani-moreno-encadena-ali-hulk-extension-total-sit-start-y-la-deja-en-9a/ | title=Dani Moreno chains 'Ali Hulk extension total sit start' and leaves it in 9a | first=Isaac |last=Fernandez | date=15 May 2023 | accessdate=16 August 2023 | language=es | trans-title=es}}</ref><ref name=ukclimbing2010>{{Cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190616114147/https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/10/video_magnus_midtboe_climbs_9b-58139 | archive-date=June 16, 2019 |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58139 |title=Video: Magnus Midtboe climbs 9b |author=Björn Pohl |publisher=UK Climbing |date=October 2010 |accessdate=21 April 2013}}</ref> |
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| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|8c+|link=no}}<ref name=planetmountain2013>{{Cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180622071542/http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/magnus-midtbo-onsights-8c-at-rodellar-in-spain.html | archive-date=June 22, 2018 |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40798 |title=Magnus Midtbø onsights 8c+ at Rodellar in Spain |date=18 April 2013 |publisher=Planetmountain |accessdate=18 April 2013}}</ref> |
| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|8c+|link=no}}<ref name=planetmountain2013>{{Cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180622071542/http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/magnus-midtbo-onsights-8c-at-rodellar-in-spain.html | archive-date=June 22, 2018 |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40798 |title=Magnus Midtbø onsights 8c+ at Rodellar in Spain |date=18 April 2013 |publisher=Planetmountain |accessdate=18 April 2013}}</ref> |
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| highestboulder = {{boulder grade|8B+}} |
| highestboulder = {{boulder grade|8B+}} |
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{{MedalCompetition|[[Sport climbing at the World Games|World Games]]}} |
{{MedalCompetition|[[Sport climbing at the World Games|World Games]]}} |
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{{MedalBronze|[[World Games 2013|2013 Cali]]|Lead}} |
{{MedalBronze|[[World Games 2013|2013 Cali]]|Lead}} |
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{{Medal|Competition|[[IFSC Climbing World Cup|World Cup]]}} |
{{Medal|Competition|[[IFSC Climbing World Cup|World Cup (Individual Legs)]]}} |
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{{Medal|Bronze|2011 Chamonix|Lead}} |
{{Medal|Bronze|2011 Chamonix Leg|Lead}} |
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{{Medal|Bronze|2012 Kranj|Lead}} |
{{Medal|Bronze|2012 Kranj Leg|Lead}} |
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}} |
}} |
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{{Infobox YouTube personality |
{{Infobox YouTube personality |
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| channel_direct_url = user/magmidt88 |
| channel_direct_url = user/magmidt88 |
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| channel_display_name = Magnus Midtbø |
| channel_display_name = Magnus Midtbø |
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| years_active = |
| years_active = 2011–present |
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| genre = Climbing, Vlog, Sport |
| genre = Climbing, Vlog, Sport |
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| subscribers = 2. |
| subscribers = 2.4 million |
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| views = |
| views = 421.5 million<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/c/magmidt88/about | title=Magnus Midtbø - YouTube | website=[[YouTube]] }}</ref> |
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| silver_year = 2018<ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O77nbpbihJk&ab_channel=MagnusMidtb%C3%B8</ref> |
| silver_year = 2018<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O77nbpbihJk&ab_channel=MagnusMidtb%C3%B8 | title=100 Boulders in One Session - 100K subs special | website=[[YouTube]] | date=28 December 2018 }}</ref> |
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| silver_button = yes |
| silver_button = yes |
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| gold_year = 2021<ref>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jozh3R2YLXA&ab_channel=MagnusMidtb%C3%B8</ref> |
| gold_year = 2021<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jozh3R2YLXA&ab_channel=MagnusMidtb%C3%B8 | title=Climbing with Adam Ondra - the World's Best Climber | website=[[YouTube]] | date=28 October 2021 }}</ref> |
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| gold_button = yes |
| gold_button = yes |
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| stats_update = January 27, 2024 |
| stats_update = January 27, 2024 |
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}} |
}} |
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'''Magnus Rognan Midtbø''' (born 18 September 1988)<ref name="great-norwegian-encyclopedia">{{cite web| title=Magnus Rognan Midtbø in Store Norske Leksikon | url=https://snl.no/Magnus_Rognan_Midtb%C3%B8 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161023065219/https://snl.no/Magnus_Rognan_Midtb%C3%B8 |archive-date=Oct 23, 2016 }}</ref> is a [[norwegians|Norwegian]] [[rock climbing|rock climber]], [[competition climber]], and [[YouTube]] [[Vlog|video blogger]]. He was born in [[Bergen]], |
'''Magnus Rognan Midtbø''' (born 18 September 1988)<ref name="great-norwegian-encyclopedia">{{cite web| title=Magnus Rognan Midtbø in Store Norske Leksikon | url=https://snl.no/Magnus_Rognan_Midtb%C3%B8 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161023065219/https://snl.no/Magnus_Rognan_Midtb%C3%B8 |archive-date=Oct 23, 2016 }}</ref> is a [[norwegians|Norwegian]] [[rock climbing|rock climber]], [[competition climber]], and [[YouTube]] [[Vlog|video blogger]]. He was born in [[Bergen]], Norway. He retired from [[competition climbing]] in 2017. |
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== Climbing career == |
== Climbing career == |
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=== Rock climbing=== |
=== Rock climbing=== |
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Midtbø started climbing in 2000 at 11 years of age after his mother enrolled him in a class. After just one year of climbing, he won the Norwegian Youth Championship, and a year later, in 2002, he [[Glossary of climbing terms#on-sight|on- |
Midtbø started climbing in 2000 at 11 years of age after his mother enrolled him in a class. After just one year of climbing, he won the Norwegian Youth Championship, and a year later, in 2002, he [[Glossary of climbing terms#on-sight|on-sighted]] his first {{Climbing grade|8a}} [[sport climbing]] route ''Øgletryne'' at the Sageveggen rock wall, near [[Bergen]].<ref>{{cite web |author=Tijl |publisher=belclimb.net| title=Magnus Midtbø | url= http://en.belclimb.be/mix/articles/magnus-midtb%C3%B8| archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20180929064602/http://en.belclimb.be/mix/articles/magnus-midtb%C3%B8 | archive-date=Sep 29, 2018}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190615204657/https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Sageveggen&AscentName=%C3%B8gletryne&AscentType=0 | url=https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Sageveggen&AscentName=%C3%B8gletryne&AscentType=0 | title= Øgletryne Sageveggen | publisher=8a.nu | archive-date=Jun 15, 2019}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190616103257/https://www.facebook.com/magmidt/photos/a.274265855974789/1107039986030701/?type=3&hc_ref=ARRzcqFuN3QgCEOlmylPl1tXrHShQ5UWaP1nZaAd6vovKDF11EgdfvcTiLPjIlAedAI | archive-date=Jun 16, 2019 | url=https://www.facebook.com/magmidt/photos/a.274265855974789/1107039986030701/?type=3&hc_ref=ARRzcqFuN3QgCEOlmylPl1tXrHShQ5UWaP1nZaAd6vovKDF11EgdfvcTiLPjIlAedAI | publisher=facebook.com | title=The line is blurry. Øgletryne was the first 8a I ever did and now 15 years later it's my first 8a without a rope[...]}}</ref> |
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In August 2010, |
In August 2010, he completed the route ''Ali Hulk sit start extension'' in [[Rodellar]], Spain.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57561 |title=Magnus Midtbø interview |author=Björn Pohl |publisher=UK Climbing |date=August 2010 |accessdate=11 May 2013}}</ref> The first ascent was made by {{ill|Daniel Andrada|fr}} in 2007. The grade was initially proposed at {{Climbing grade|9b|link=no}}, but was later downgraded to 9a+/b, and then further to {{climbing grade|9a}} in 2023.<ref name=DN1/><ref name="ukclimbing2010" /> |
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In May 2013, Midtbø returned to Rodellar to |
In May 2013, Midtbø returned to Rodellar to on-sight the sport climbing route ''Cosi fan tutte'' which is graded at {{Climbing grade|8c+|link=no}}. {{As of|2013|04}}, the [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|highest-ever]] climbing grade to be on-sighted is just one grade higher at {{climbing grade|9a}}.<ref name="planetmountain2013" /> |
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In March 2015, he [[Redpoint (climbing)|redpointed]] ''Papichulo '' at Oliana at {{climbing grade|9a+}}.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/magnus-midtbo-climbs-papichulo-at-oliana.html | title=Magnus Midtbø climbs Papichulo at Oliana | date=23 March 2015 | accessdate=21 April 2024}}</ref> |
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===Competition climbing=== |
===Competition climbing=== |
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In 2005, |
In 2005, Midtbø won the [[IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships|World Youth Championships]] in [[Beijing]], China.<ref>{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190531153437/https://www.whiteout-climbing.de/team/magnus-midtbo | archive-date=May 31, 2019 | url=https://www.whiteout-climbing.de/team/magnus-midtbo | publisher=whiteout-climbing.de | title=Athlet Magnus midtbø}}</ref><ref name="youth-world-2005-ifsc-results">{{cite web | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190616104705/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar%23!comp=672&cat=15 | archive-date=June 16, 2019 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=672&cat=15 | title=UIAA World Youth Championship - Bejing [sic] (CHN) 2005 - Result: male youth A lead | access-date=June 16, 2019 | url-status=live }}</ref> After graduating from high school in 2007, Midtbø moved to [[Innsbruck|Innsbruck, Austria]] where he trained with other leading competition climbers including [[David Lama]], [[Jakob Schubert]], and [[Anna Stöhr]]. Midtbø was particularly impressed by Lama.<ref> |
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After graduating from high school in 2007, Midtbø moved to [[Innsbruck|Innsbruck, Austria]]. At the time, Innsbruck attracted many of the world's top climbers, including [[David Lama]], [[Jakob Schubert]], and [[Anna Stöhr]], who trained together for competitions. In an interview, Midtbø described Lama as the most talented person he had ever climbed with as well as a personal inspiration during their tenure in Austria.<ref> |
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*{{cite web | url=https://latticetraining.com/2019/05/17/training-talk-with-magnus-midtbo/ | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190619155946/https://latticetraining.com/2019/05/17/training-talk-with-magnus-midtbo/ | archive-date=Jun 19, 2019 | title=Training Talk with Magnus Midtbø | date=17 May 2019 | publisher=latticetraining.com}} |
*{{cite web | url=https://latticetraining.com/2019/05/17/training-talk-with-magnus-midtbo/ | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190619155946/https://latticetraining.com/2019/05/17/training-talk-with-magnus-midtbo/ | archive-date=Jun 19, 2019 | title=Training Talk with Magnus Midtbø | date=17 May 2019 | publisher=latticetraining.com}} |
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*{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW5LkGOd69Q | publisher=YouTube | title=Training Talk with Magnus Midtbø (It's a BIG one!)}} |
*{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW5LkGOd69Q | publisher=YouTube | title=Training Talk with Magnus Midtbø (It's a BIG one!)| date=10 May 2019 }} |
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</ref> |
</ref> |
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Midtbø retired from competitive climbing in May 2017 |
Midtbø retired from competitive climbing in May 2017,<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.facebook.com/CDNclimbingnews/videos/809103142600082}|title=Retirement announcement|website=[[Facebook]]|date=May 2017|accessdate=16 December 2018}}</ref> saying: "I still get motivated just by climbing. I think some people need a specific goal, but I’ve never felt like I needed one. It sounds really cheesy, I know. I just love climbing. I love being in the nature. I love the feeling of feeling free, but it is like that you know. I don’t know. I like the lifestyle, I like traveling, I like trying hard, and most of all, I like the feeling of feeling really fit, really strong, the feeling of being able to climb anything."<ref>{{cite web |last1=Mitdbo |first1=Magnus |title=NO CLIMBING COMPETITIONS? - Q&A | VLOG #95 |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARMHb0XKczA&t=224s |website=Youtube |date=4 December 2017 |accessdate=20 January 2019}}</ref> |
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== Media career== |
== Media career== |
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Midtbø runs |
Midtbø runs an eponymous YouTube channel, which had over two million subscribers as of November 2023.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/user/magmidt88/featured|title = Magnus Midtbø - YouTube|website = [[YouTube]]}}</ref> |
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In 2013, Magnus Midtbø participated in a German TV show ''Der Deutsche Meister'' (the German Champion) as the international contestant in the ''Reckstangenklettern'' (salmon ladder) challenge. Midtbø beat the German contestant.<ref>{{cite web | title=Wuppertaler erfolgreich in ARD-Show | date=3 November 2013 | publisher=Westdeutsche Zeitung | url=https://www.wz.de/nrw/wuppertal/wuppertaler-erfolgreich-in-ard-show_aid-29795383 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190615093828/https://www.wz.de/nrw/wuppertal/wuppertaler-erfolgreich-in-ard-show_aid-29795383 | archive-date=June 15, 2019}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |publisher=ARD | url=https://www.daserste.de/unterhaltung/show/die-deutschen-meister-2013/sendungen/02112013-gewinner-finale100.html | title=Die Gewinner der Finalshow | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170321210659/https://www.daserste.de/unterhaltung/show/die-deutschen-meister-2013/sendungen/02112013-gewinner-finale100.html | archive-date=March 21, 2017}}</ref> |
In 2013, Magnus Midtbø participated in a German TV show ''Der Deutsche Meister'' (the German Champion) as the international contestant in the ''Reckstangenklettern'' (salmon ladder) challenge. Midtbø beat the German contestant.<ref>{{cite web | title=Wuppertaler erfolgreich in ARD-Show | date=3 November 2013 | publisher=Westdeutsche Zeitung | url=https://www.wz.de/nrw/wuppertal/wuppertaler-erfolgreich-in-ard-show_aid-29795383 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190615093828/https://www.wz.de/nrw/wuppertal/wuppertaler-erfolgreich-in-ard-show_aid-29795383 | archive-date=June 15, 2019}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |publisher=ARD | url=https://www.daserste.de/unterhaltung/show/die-deutschen-meister-2013/sendungen/02112013-gewinner-finale100.html | title=Die Gewinner der Finalshow | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170321210659/https://www.daserste.de/unterhaltung/show/die-deutschen-meister-2013/sendungen/02112013-gewinner-finale100.html | archive-date=March 21, 2017}}</ref> |
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In 2016, Midtbø was criticized for publishing a picture of himself hanging off the [[Trolltunga]] rock formation in Norway. He was wearing a safety harness but local police officers were concerned the stunt might inspire others to replicate it without taking proper safety precautions.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.thelocal.no/20160802/norway-climber-slammed-for-trolltunga-stunt | title=Norway climber slammed for Trolltunga stunt| date=2 August 2016}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.nrk.no/hordaland/trolltunga-stuntet_-_-mange-mente-jeg-var-gal-og-dum-1.13083147 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160817192052/https://www.nrk.no/hordaland/trolltunga-stuntet_-_-mange-mente-jeg-var-gal-og-dum-1.13083147 | title=Mange mente jeg var gal og dum (Many thought I was crazy and stupid) | date=11 August 2016 | archive-date=Aug 17, 2016 | publisher=NRK}}</ref><ref name="nrk-trolltunga-with-bio">{{cite web | url=https://www.nrk.no/hordaland/her-henger-magnus-_27_-fra-trolltunga-1.13065092 | title=Her henger Magnus (27) fra Trolltunga (Here, Magnus (27) hangs from Trolltunga) | date=30 July 2016 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160817192052/https://www.nrk.no/hordaland/trolltunga-stuntet_-_-mange-mente-jeg-var-gal-og-dum-1.13083147 | archive-date=Aug 17, 2016 | publisher=NRK}}</ref> |
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In January 2020, Magnus Midtbø represented Team Europe in ''[[American Ninja Warrior: USA vs. The World]]''.<ref name="usavstheworld2020">{{cite web | url=https://www.americanninjawarriornation.com/2020/1/24/21080266/get-to-know-the-ninja-warriors-of-team-europe-usa-vs-the-world-2020 | title=Get to Know the Ninja Warriors of Team Europe | date=24 January 2020 | publisher=American Ninja Warrior Nation | archive-url=https://archive.today/20200207121554/https://www.americanninjawarriornation.com/2020/1/24/21080266/get-to-know-the-ninja-warriors-of-team-europe-usa-vs-the-world-2020 | archive-date=February 7, 2020 | access-date=February 7, 2020 | url-status=live }}</ref> |
In January 2020, Magnus Midtbø represented Team Europe in ''[[American Ninja Warrior: USA vs. The World]]''.<ref name="usavstheworld2020">{{cite web | url=https://www.americanninjawarriornation.com/2020/1/24/21080266/get-to-know-the-ninja-warriors-of-team-europe-usa-vs-the-world-2020 | title=Get to Know the Ninja Warriors of Team Europe | date=24 January 2020 | publisher=American Ninja Warrior Nation | archive-url=https://archive.today/20200207121554/https://www.americanninjawarriornation.com/2020/1/24/21080266/get-to-know-the-ninja-warriors-of-team-europe-usa-vs-the-world-2020 | archive-date=February 7, 2020 | access-date=February 7, 2020 | url-status=live }}</ref> |
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In 2022, Magnus uploaded one of his most viral videos where he documented his experience [[free solo climbing]] with [[Alex Honnold]].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Redaktion |date=2022-06-19 |title=Alex Honnold takes Magnus Midtbo to free solo climbing |url=https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/alex-honnold-brings-magnus-midtbo-to-free-solo-climbing/ |access-date=2024-05-27 |website=Lacrux Klettermagazin |language=en}}</ref> |
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== Personal life== |
== Personal life== |
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His sister, Hannah Midtbø (born 1990), is also a professional climber. She won the Nordic Championships (NM) in the lead climbing discipline in 2006<ref name="great-norwegian-encyclopedia" /> and has been a bouldering competitor at various IFSC World Cups and European Championships.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=athlete&id=6522&cat=5 | title=Hannah Midtboe (IFSC profile) | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181011133454/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=athlete&id=6522&cat=5 | archive-date=Oct 11, 2018}}</ref> |
His sister, Hannah Midtbø (born 1990), is also a professional climber. She won the Nordic Championships (NM) in the lead climbing discipline in 2006<ref name="great-norwegian-encyclopedia" /> and has been a bouldering competitor at various IFSC World Cups and European Championships.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=athlete&id=6522&cat=5 | title=Hannah Midtboe (IFSC profile) | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181011133454/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=athlete&id=6522&cat=5 | archive-date=Oct 11, 2018}}</ref> |
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==External links== |
==External links== |
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* [https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/athlete/3058/magnus-midtbo IFSC Profile] |
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* [http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!person=5800&cat=1 IFSC Profile] ([https://web.archive.org/web/20120727230514/http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&person=5800&cat=1 2012 Archive]) |
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* [http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=2213 8a.nu Profile] |
* [http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=2213 8a.nu Profile] |
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* [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_gSotrFVZ_PiAxo3fTQVuQ YouTube Channel] |
* [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_gSotrFVZ_PiAxo3fTQVuQ YouTube Channel] |
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[[Category:Norwegian rock climbers]] |
[[Category:Norwegian rock climbers]] |
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[[Category:Sportspeople from Bergen]] |
[[Category:Sportspeople from Bergen]] |
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[[Category:World Games bronze medalists]] |
[[Category:World Games bronze medalists for Norway]] |
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[[Category:World Games medalists in sport climbing]] |
[[Category:World Games medalists in sport climbing]] |
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[[Category: |
[[Category:Norwegian video bloggers]] |
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[[Category:21st-century Norwegian people]] |
[[Category:21st-century Norwegian people]] |
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[[Category:Norwegian competition climbers]] |
[[Category:Norwegian competition climbers]] |
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[[Category:World Games medalists for Norway]] |
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[[Category:Medalists at the 2013 World Games]] |
[[Category:Medalists at the 2013 World Games]] |
Latest revision as of 06:54, 25 November 2024
Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||
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Born | Bergen, Norway | 18 September 1988|||||||||||||||||
Height | 173 cm (5 ft 8 in) | |||||||||||||||||
Weight | 71 kg (157 lb) | |||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade | ||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Updated on 16 June 2019 |
Magnus Midtbø | ||||||||||
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YouTube information | ||||||||||
Channel | ||||||||||
Years active | 2011–present | |||||||||
Genre(s) | Climbing, Vlog, Sport | |||||||||
Subscribers | 2.4 million[5] | |||||||||
Total views | 421.5 million[4][5] | |||||||||
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Last updated: January 27, 2024 |
Magnus Rognan Midtbø (born 18 September 1988)[8] is a Norwegian rock climber, competition climber, and YouTube video blogger. He was born in Bergen, Norway. He retired from competition climbing in 2017.
Climbing career
[edit]Rock climbing
[edit]Midtbø started climbing in 2000 at 11 years of age after his mother enrolled him in a class. After just one year of climbing, he won the Norwegian Youth Championship, and a year later, in 2002, he on-sighted his first 8a (5.13b) sport climbing route Øgletryne at the Sageveggen rock wall, near Bergen.[9][10][11]
In August 2010, he completed the route Ali Hulk sit start extension in Rodellar, Spain.[12] The first ascent was made by Daniel Andrada in 2007. The grade was initially proposed at 9b (5.15b), but was later downgraded to 9a+/b, and then further to 9a (5.14d) in 2023.[1][2]
In May 2013, Midtbø returned to Rodellar to on-sight the sport climbing route Cosi fan tutte which is graded at 8c+ (5.14c). As of April 2013[update], the highest-ever climbing grade to be on-sighted is just one grade higher at 9a (5.14d).[3]
In March 2015, he redpointed Papichulo at Oliana at 9a+ (5.15a).[13]
Competition climbing
[edit]In 2005, Midtbø won the World Youth Championships in Beijing, China.[14][15] After graduating from high school in 2007, Midtbø moved to Innsbruck, Austria where he trained with other leading competition climbers including David Lama, Jakob Schubert, and Anna Stöhr. Midtbø was particularly impressed by Lama.[16]
Midtbø retired from competitive climbing in May 2017,[17] saying: "I still get motivated just by climbing. I think some people need a specific goal, but I’ve never felt like I needed one. It sounds really cheesy, I know. I just love climbing. I love being in the nature. I love the feeling of feeling free, but it is like that you know. I don’t know. I like the lifestyle, I like traveling, I like trying hard, and most of all, I like the feeling of feeling really fit, really strong, the feeling of being able to climb anything."[18]
Media career
[edit]Midtbø runs an eponymous YouTube channel, which had over two million subscribers as of November 2023.[19]
In 2013, Magnus Midtbø participated in a German TV show Der Deutsche Meister (the German Champion) as the international contestant in the Reckstangenklettern (salmon ladder) challenge. Midtbø beat the German contestant.[20][21]
In 2016, Midtbø was criticized for publishing a picture of himself hanging off the Trolltunga rock formation in Norway. He was wearing a safety harness but local police officers were concerned the stunt might inspire others to replicate it without taking proper safety precautions.[22][23][24]
In January 2020, Magnus Midtbø represented Team Europe in American Ninja Warrior: USA vs. The World.[25]
In 2022, Magnus uploaded one of his most viral videos where he documented his experience free solo climbing with Alex Honnold.[26]
Personal life
[edit]His sister, Hannah Midtbø (born 1990), is also a professional climber. She won the Nordic Championships (NM) in the lead climbing discipline in 2006[8] and has been a bouldering competitor at various IFSC World Cups and European Championships.[27]
Rankings
[edit]World Games
[edit]World Games record:
Discipline | 2013 Cali[31] |
---|---|
Lead | 3 |
Number of medals in the IFSC Climbing World Cup
[edit]Lead
[edit]Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2011 | 1 | 1 | ||
2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
USA Climbing
[edit]Discipline | 2010[32] | 2011[33] |
---|---|---|
Lead | 1 | 1 |
IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships
[edit]IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships
Discipline | 2005 Youth A[15] |
---|---|
Lead | 1 |
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup / Series
[edit]Lead
[edit]European Youth Cup Winner: 2005,[34] 2006,[35] 2007[36]
Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2003 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
2004 | Youth A | 1 | 1 | ||
2005 | Youth A | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
2006 | Junior | 3 | 3 | ||
2007 | Junior | 4 | 1 | 5 | |
Total | 11 | 4 | 0 | 15 |
Scandinavia
[edit]- Nordic champion 7 years in a row (2005–2011)
- Norwegian champion 11 years in a row (2005–2015)[24][8]
References
[edit]- ^ a b Fernandez, Isaac (15 May 2023). "Dani Moreno chains 'Ali Hulk extension total sit start' and leaves it in 9a" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved 16 August 2023.
- ^ a b Björn Pohl (October 2010). "Video: Magnus Midtboe climbs 9b". UK Climbing. Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved 21 April 2013.
- ^ a b "Magnus Midtbø onsights 8c+ at Rodellar in Spain". Planetmountain. 18 April 2013. Archived from the original on June 22, 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2013.
- ^ "Magnus Midtbø - YouTube". YouTube.
- ^ a b "About Magnus Midtbø". YouTube.
- ^ "100 Boulders in One Session - 100K subs special". YouTube. 28 December 2018.
- ^ "Climbing with Adam Ondra - the World's Best Climber". YouTube. 28 October 2021.
- ^ a b c "Magnus Rognan Midtbø in Store Norske Leksikon". Archived from the original on Oct 23, 2016.
- ^ Tijl. "Magnus Midtbø". belclimb.net. Archived from the original on Sep 29, 2018.
- ^ "Øgletryne Sageveggen". 8a.nu. Archived from the original on Jun 15, 2019.
- ^ "The line is blurry. Øgletryne was the first 8a I ever did and now 15 years later it's my first 8a without a rope[...]". facebook.com. Archived from the original on Jun 16, 2019.
- ^ Björn Pohl (August 2010). "Magnus Midtbø interview". UK Climbing. Retrieved 11 May 2013.
- ^ "Magnus Midtbø climbs Papichulo at Oliana". PlanetMountain. 23 March 2015. Retrieved 21 April 2024.
- ^ "Athlet Magnus midtbø". whiteout-climbing.de. Archived from the original on May 31, 2019.
- ^ a b "UIAA World Youth Championship - Bejing [sic] (CHN) 2005 - Result: male youth A lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 16, 2019.
- ^
- "Training Talk with Magnus Midtbø". latticetraining.com. 17 May 2019. Archived from the original on Jun 19, 2019.
- "Training Talk with Magnus Midtbø (It's a BIG one!)". YouTube. 10 May 2019.
- ^ "Retirement announcement". Facebook. May 2017. Retrieved 16 December 2018.
- ^ Mitdbo, Magnus (4 December 2017). "NO CLIMBING COMPETITIONS? - Q&A | VLOG #95". Youtube. Retrieved 20 January 2019.
- ^ "Magnus Midtbø - YouTube". YouTube.
- ^ "Wuppertaler erfolgreich in ARD-Show". Westdeutsche Zeitung. 3 November 2013. Archived from the original on June 15, 2019.
- ^ "Die Gewinner der Finalshow". ARD. Archived from the original on March 21, 2017.
- ^ "Norway climber slammed for Trolltunga stunt". 2 August 2016.
- ^ "Mange mente jeg var gal og dum (Many thought I was crazy and stupid)". NRK. 11 August 2016. Archived from the original on Aug 17, 2016.
- ^ a b "Her henger Magnus (27) fra Trolltunga (Here, Magnus (27) hangs from Trolltunga)". NRK. 30 July 2016. Archived from the original on Aug 17, 2016.
- ^ "Get to Know the Ninja Warriors of Team Europe". American Ninja Warrior Nation. 24 January 2020. Archived from the original on February 7, 2020. Retrieved February 7, 2020.
- ^ Redaktion (2022-06-19). "Alex Honnold takes Magnus Midtbo to free solo climbing". Lacrux Klettermagazin. Retrieved 2024-05-27.
- ^ "Hannah Midtboe (IFSC profile)". Archived from the original on Oct 11, 2018.
- ^ "IFSC old website: Magnus Midtboe - All Results (2010)". Archived from the original on Dec 7, 2010.
- ^ "IFSC old website: Magnus Midtboe - Best Results (2012)". Archived from the original on Jul 27, 2012.
- ^ Mitdbo, Magnus. "About Me (2012)". Archived from the original on Nov 13, 2016.
- ^ "World Games 2013 Cali result book: Climbing" (PDF). worldgames2013.sportresult.com. Swiss Timing. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2016-09-12.
- ^ "2010 SCS Open National Championship Results". Archived from the original on Mar 7, 2017.
- ^ "DiGiulian, Midtbø Win 2011 SCS Open National Championships". Archived from the original on Sep 11, 2018.
- ^ "European Youth Cup 2005: male youth A lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 15, 2019.
- ^ "European Youth Cup 2006: male juniors lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 15, 2019.
- ^ "European Youth Series 2007: male juniors lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 15, 2019.