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{{Short description|18/19th-century Sardinian physician and mountaineer}}
{{for|the French ice hockey player|Michel Paccard (ice hockey)}}
[[image:Michel Gabriel Paccard.jpg|thumb|Portrait of Michel Gabriel Paccard. Reproduced from an old portrait in the possession of M. J. P, Cachat, of Chamonix (his great grandson). From a photograph by Tairraz, of Chamonix]]
[[image:Michel Gabriel Paccard.jpg|thumb|Portrait of Michel Gabriel Paccard. Reproduced from an old portrait in the possession of M. J. P, Cachat, of Chamonix (his great grandson). From a photograph by Tairraz, of Chamonix]]
'''Michel Gabriel Paccard''' (1757–1827) was a [[Savoy|Savoyard]] doctor and alpinist, citizen of the [[Kingdom of Sardinia]].
'''Michel Gabriel Paccard''' ({{IPA|fr|miʃɛl ɡabʁijɛl pakaʁ}}; 1757–1827) was a [[Savoy]]ard medical doctor and [[Mountaineering|alpinist]], citizen of the [[Kingdom of Sardinia]].


[[File:00 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc - M G Paccard.jpg|thumb|left|Michel-Gabriel Paccard - Monument erected at [[:w:Chamonix|Chamonix]].|250px]]
[[File:00 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc - M G Paccard.jpg|thumb|left|Michel-Gabriel Paccard – Monument erected at [[:w:Chamonix|Chamonix]].|250px]]
==Life==
Born in [[Chamonix]], he studied [[medicine]] in [[Turin]]. Due to his passion for [[botany]] and [[minerals]], he met [[Horace-Bénédict de Saussure]], who initiated the race to be the first to ascend [[Mont Blanc]].
Born in [[Chamonix]], he studied [[medicine]] in [[Turin]].{{cn|date=October 2024}} Due to his passion for [[botany]] and [[minerals]], he met [[Horace-Bénédict de Saussure]], who initiated the race to be the first to ascend [[Mont Blanc]].{{cn|date=October 2024}}


[[Gaston Rébuffat]] wrote "Like Saussure a devotee of the natural sciences, he has a dream: to carry a barometer to the summit and take a reading there. An excellent mountaineer, he has already made several attempts." <ref>{{cite book|last=Rébuffat|first=Gaston|others=translated by Jane and Colin Taylor|title=The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes|publisher=Oxford University Press|location=New York|date=1975|pages=12|isbn=0-19-519789-5}}</ref>
In 1975 [[Gaston Rébuffat]] wrote "Like Saussure a devotee of the natural sciences, he has a dream: to carry a barometer to the summit and take a reading there. An excellent mountaineer, he has already made several attempts."<ref>{{cite book|last=Rébuffat|first=Gaston|translator=Jane|translator2=Colin Taylor|title=The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes|publisher=Oxford University Press|location=New York|year=1975|pages=12|isbn=0-19-519789-5}}</ref>


Paccard had a first, unsuccessful, attempt in 1783 with [[Marc Theodore Bourrit]]. In 1784, he made several attempts with [[Pierre Balmat]]. Finally, he made the first ascent of Mont Blanc with [[Jacques Balmat]] on August 8, 1786.
Paccard had a first, unsuccessful, attempt in 1783 with [[Marc Theodore Bourrit]].{{cn|date=October 2024}} In 1784, he made several attempts with [[Jacques Balmat]] before they made the first ascent of Mont Blanc together on 8 August 1786.{{cn|date=October 2024}}


Balmat and Paccard's ascent of Mont Blanc was a major accomplishment in the early history of mountaineering. C. Douglas Milner wrote "The ascent itself was magnificent; an amazing feat of endurance and sustained courage, carried through by these two men only, unroped and without ice axes, heavily burdened with scientific equipment and with long iron-pointed batons. The fortunate weather and a moon alone ensured their return alive." <ref>{{cite book|last=Milner|first=C. Douglas|title=Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles|publisher=Robert Hale Limited|location=London|date=1955|pages=16}}</ref>
Paccard later married Jacques Balmat's sister, and became a justice of the peace.<ref>{{cite book|last=Milner|first=C. Douglas|title=Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles|publisher=Robert Hale Limited|location=London|year=1955|pages=28}}</ref>


==Reception==
[[Eric Shipton]] wrote "Theirs was an astounding achievement of courage and determination, one of the greatest in the annals of mountaineering. It was accomplished by men who were not only on unexplored ground but on a route that all the guides believed to be impossible." <ref>{{cite book|last=Shipton|first=Eric|title=Mountain Conquest|publisher=American Heritage Publishing Co.|location=New York|date=1966|pages=28}}</ref>
Balmat and Paccard's ascent of Mont Blanc was a major accomplishment in the early history of mountaineering. C. Douglas Milner wrote "The ascent itself was magnificent; an amazing feat of endurance and sustained courage, carried through by these two men only, unroped and without ice axes, heavily burdened with scientific equipment and with long iron-pointed batons. The fortunate weather and a moon alone ensured their return alive."<ref>{{cite book|last=Milner|first=C. Douglas|title=Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles|publisher=Robert Hale Limited|location=London|year=1955|pages=16}}</ref>


Paccard later married Jacques Balmat's sister, and became a Justice of the Peace. <ref>{{cite book|last=Milner|first=C. Douglas|title=Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles|publisher=Robert Hale Limited|location=London|date=1955|pages=28}}</ref>
[[Eric Shipton]] wrote "Theirs was an astounding achievement of courage and determination, one of the greatest in the annals of mountaineering. It was accomplished by men who were not only on unexplored ground but on a route that all the guides believed to be impossible."<ref>{{cite book|last=Shipton|first=Eric|title=Mountain Conquest|publisher=American Heritage Publishing Co.|location=New York|year=1966|pages=28}}</ref>


There is a statue of him in Chamonix.
There is a statue of him in Chamonix.
Line 20: Line 24:
<references/>
<references/>


{{commons|Category:Michel Gabriel Paccard|Michel Gabriel Paccard}}
{{Commons category|Michel Gabriel Paccard}}

{{Authority control}}


{{Persondata <!-- Metadata: see [[Wikipedia:Persondata]]. -->
| NAME = Paccard, Michel-Gabriel
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES =
| SHORT DESCRIPTION =
| DATE OF BIRTH = 1757
| PLACE OF BIRTH =
| DATE OF DEATH = 1827
| PLACE OF DEATH =
}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Paccard, Michel-Gabriel}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Paccard, Michel-Gabriel}}
[[Category:1757 births]]
[[Category:1757 births]]
[[Category:1827 deaths]]
[[Category:1827 deaths]]
[[Category:People from Chamonix]]
[[Category:People from Chamonix]]
[[Category:People from the Kingdom of Sardinia]]
[[Category:Physicians from the Kingdom of Sardinia]]
[[Category:Italian mountain climbers]]
[[Category:Mountain climbers from the Kingdom of Sardinia]]




{{Italy-bio-stub}}
{{Italy-bio-stub}}

[[af:Michel-Gabriel Paccard]]
[[de:Michel-Gabriel Paccard]]
[[fr:Michel Paccard]]
[[it:Michel Gabriel Paccard]]
[[nl:Michel-Gabriel Paccard]]
[[pl:Michel-Gabriel Paccard]]

Latest revision as of 17:02, 27 October 2024

For the French ice hockey player, see Michel Paccard (ice hockey).
Portrait of Michel Gabriel Paccard. Reproduced from an old portrait in the possession of M. J. P, Cachat, of Chamonix (his great grandson). From a photograph by Tairraz, of Chamonix

Michel Gabriel Paccard (French pronunciation: [miʃɛl ɡabʁijɛl pakaʁ]; 1757–1827) was a Savoyard medical doctor and alpinist, citizen of the Kingdom of Sardinia.

Michel-Gabriel Paccard – Monument erected at Chamonix.

Life

[edit]

Born in Chamonix, he studied medicine in Turin.[citation needed] Due to his passion for botany and minerals, he met Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, who initiated the race to be the first to ascend Mont Blanc.[citation needed]

In 1975 Gaston Rébuffat wrote "Like Saussure a devotee of the natural sciences, he has a dream: to carry a barometer to the summit and take a reading there. An excellent mountaineer, he has already made several attempts."[1]

Paccard had a first, unsuccessful, attempt in 1783 with Marc Theodore Bourrit.[citation needed] In 1784, he made several attempts with Jacques Balmat before they made the first ascent of Mont Blanc together on 8 August 1786.[citation needed]

Paccard later married Jacques Balmat's sister, and became a justice of the peace.[2]

Reception

[edit]

Balmat and Paccard's ascent of Mont Blanc was a major accomplishment in the early history of mountaineering. C. Douglas Milner wrote "The ascent itself was magnificent; an amazing feat of endurance and sustained courage, carried through by these two men only, unroped and without ice axes, heavily burdened with scientific equipment and with long iron-pointed batons. The fortunate weather and a moon alone ensured their return alive."[3]

Eric Shipton wrote "Theirs was an astounding achievement of courage and determination, one of the greatest in the annals of mountaineering. It was accomplished by men who were not only on unexplored ground but on a route that all the guides believed to be impossible."[4]

There is a statue of him in Chamonix.

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Rébuffat, Gaston (1975). The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes. Translated by Jane; Colin Taylor. New York: Oxford University Press. p. 12. ISBN 0-19-519789-5.
  2. ^ Milner, C. Douglas (1955). Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles. London: Robert Hale Limited. p. 28.
  3. ^ Milner, C. Douglas (1955). Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles. London: Robert Hale Limited. p. 16.
  4. ^ Shipton, Eric (1966). Mountain Conquest. New York: American Heritage Publishing Co. p. 28.
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