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{{short description|Creole rice fritters}} |
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'''Calas''' ({{IPAc-en|k|ə|ˈ|l|ɑː}}) are [[dumpling]]s composed primarily of cooked [[rice]], [[yeast]], [[sugar]], [[egg (food)|eggs]], and [[flour]]; the resulting batter is [[deep frying|deep-fried]]. It is traditionally a [[breakfast]] dish, served with [[coffee]] or [[Cafe au lait#Usage|cafe au lait]],<ref name=Eustis1903/> and has a mention in most [[Creole cuisine]] cookbooks. Calas are also referred to as Creole rice [[fritters]] or rice [[doughnuts]]. |
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'''Calas''' are [[Deep frying|deep fried]] [[rice]] [[cake]]s, made with [[sugar]], [[flour]], [[egg (food)|eggs]] and [[rice]]. It was a popular [[breakfast]] food in [[New Orleans]] in the early 20th century, and has a mention in most [[Creole cuisine]] cookbooks. They are delicious either for breakfast with [[jam]], or at [[teatime]] served like [[scones]] with [[jam]] and [[cream]]. If they are made with [[salt]] and [[pepper]] instead of [[sugar]], [[calas]] go well with [[bacon]] and [[eggs]]. <ref> Owen, S. The Rice Book. New York: St. Martin's, 1993. N. pag. Print. p.334 [[ISBN 0-312-14132-7]]</ref> Calas are also perfect served as a [[dessert]] or [[snack]] put together nicely with [[coffee]]. <ref>{{cite web|url=http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?res=F10616F83B5A15738DDDAA0894D9415B878CF1D3 |title=The Famous Creole "Calas" |publisher=NYTimes.com |date= |accessdate=2012-04-06}}</ref> |
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[[File:Elizabeths 6Ap2015 Bel Calas.jpg|right|thumb|Plate of calas at a New Orleans restaurant]] |
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==History== |
==History== |
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The origin of calas is most often credited to slaves who came from rice-growing regions of Africa.<ref name=NPR_Godoy/><ref name=WilkBarbosa2012/> A 1653 French recipe, ''beignets de riz'', lends support to a French origin as well.<ref name=Elie2013/> The name "calas" is said to have come from the [[Nupe language|Nupe]] word ''kara'' ("fried cake").<ref name=AFR_Kayal/> According to ''The Dictionary of American Food & Drink'', the word calas was first printed in 1880. |
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The history of calas is very similar to many other traditional New Orleans food, coming from both [[African]] and [[European]] [[heritage]]. <ref>{{cite web|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9902E3DF1F3BF934A25753C1A9629C8B63 |title=Calas |publisher=NYTimes.com |date= |accessdate=2012-04-06}}</ref>The name "calas" is said to have come from the African Nupe word [[kara]], or [[fried cake]]. <ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-calas.htm |title=What is a Calas? |publisher= |date= |accessdate=2012-04-06}}</ref> According to "The Dictionary of American Food & Drink," the word Calas was first printed in 1880. [[Creole]] [[street vendors]] sold the fresh hot calas in the city's [[French Quarter]], with the familiar cry, "Calas, bels calas tout chauds!" (Creole for "Calas, beaux calas tout chauds," in standard French) (meaning : Calas, beautiful calas, still hot"). The [[street vendors]] were often called "Calas Women." These women would sell their [[pastries]] in covered baskets or [[bowls]] during the early morning in the [[French Quarter]]. [[Calas]] are also referred to as [[Creole]][[ rice]] [[fritters]] or [[rice]] [[doughnuts]]. Modern day [[Beignets]] have since replaced the [[Creole]] [[rice]] [[fritters]] in most areas of [[New Orleans]], but [[calas]] can still be made to order in some [[restaurants]]. <ref> Owen, S. The Rice Book. New York: St. Martin's, 1993. N. pag. Print. p.334 [[ISBN 0-312-14132-7]]</ref> <ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-calas.htm |title=What is a Calas? |publisher= |date= |accessdate=2012-04-06}}</ref> |
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|quote = ''Belles calas...Belles calas,<br>Tou cho, tou cho, tou cho!<br>Madame, mo gaignin calas,<br>Madame, mo gaignin calas,<br>Tou cho, tou cho, tou cho!''{{efn|"Fine rice fritters...fine rice fritters; All hot, all hot, quite hot! Madame, I have rice fritters; Madame, I have rice fritters; Quite hot, quite hot, quite hot!" This is part of a street cry several stanzas long. The street cries of calas vendors were varied and inventive.<ref name=SaxonDreyer1987/>}} |
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[http://www.nola.com/175years/index.ssf/2012/08/our_times_calas_vendors_in_the.html] [http://www.ediblecommunities.com/neworleans/winter-2010/the-creole-pantry.htm] |
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|source = – "Street Criers", ''Gumbo Ya-Ya'' |
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[[Louisiana Creole people|Creole]] [[street vendors]], typically women,{{efn|Men sold calas on occasion, one source naming Richard Gabriel, "one of the last" calas street vendors.<ref name=SaxonDreyer1987/>}} sold the fresh hot calas in [[New Orleans]]' [[French Quarter]], with the [[street cries|cry]], "Bel calas tout chauds!" ([[Louisiana Creole French|Creole]] for "Beautiful calas, still hot"). These vendors, called "calas women", would sell their [[pastries]] in the early morning from covered baskets or bowls carried upon their heads.<ref name=Eustis1903/><ref name=Picayune2012/> |
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Writers in the first decade of the 20th century refer to the increasing rarity of calas as street food.<ref name=Picayune2012/><ref name=NYT_1907/> Though not widely sold, calas continued to be made at home using leftover rice, and was a typical breakfast food in early 20th-century New Orleans.<ref name=Nobles2012/><ref name=AFR_Kayal/> |
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==Recipe== |
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After World War II, while the [[beignet]] remained popular, the calas became more and more obscure. From a breakfast food it evolved into a [[New Orleans Mardi Gras|Mardi Gras]] and [[First Communion]] treat among Louisiana Creole families.<ref name=Elie2013/><ref name=AFR_Kayal/> It could be specially requested at some restaurants.<ref name=Owen/> Through the efforts of food preservationists, interest in calas was revived and it began to appear on the menus of some restaurants.<ref name=Nobles2012/><ref name=AP_Kayal/> |
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"Calas" (pronounced ka-LA) are round balls of [[batter]] made from [[flour]], [[sugar]], [[eggs]], [[yeast]] and leftover [[rice]]. The balls are [[fried]] until they are extremely hot, which creates a crisp, browned [[crust]]. The rice in the batter breaks down, giving the cooked calas a charismatically spongy and [[creamy]] texture. The yeast that is paired with the other ingredients makes the [[calas]] perfect with a side of rum. The [[calas]] are boiled in a cauldron of [[oil]] and as one side cooks (becoming lighter), the calas magically turn themselves over. <ref>{{cite web|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9902E3DF1F3BF934A25753C1A9629C8B63 |title=Calas |publisher=NYTimes.com |date= |accessdate=2012-04-06}}</ref> |
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==Preparation== |
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The recipe is as follows: |
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In early recipes for calas, rice was boiled and cooled, then yeast added to make a sponge that was allowed to proof overnight. From this a batter was made by adding eggs, sugar and a little flour for binding. Rice flour was preferable but difficult to obtain, according to Eustis. A dash of salt might be included, and a grating of nutmeg was a typical addition. The batter was dropped by spoonfuls into deep, boiling [[lard]] and fried until browned.<ref name=Eustis1903/><ref name=Picayune2012/> Modern recipes reflect the changes in available ingredients, cooking practices, and taste. Baking powder is sometimes used in place of yeast; vegetable oil is substituted for lard; savory variations have been developed.<ref name=AFR_Kayal/><ref name=Nobles2012/> |
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==See also== |
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2 1/2 teaspoons (1 package) active dry yeast |
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*[[Arancini]] |
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==Footnotes== |
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2 cups cooked and cooled medium-grain white rice |
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;Notes |
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{{notelist}} |
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;References |
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3 large eggs, beaten |
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refs= |
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<ref name=Eustis1903>{{cite book|last=Eustis |first=Célestine |title=Cooking in Old Creole Days |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=sTFAAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA108 |year=1903 |location=New York |publisher=R.H. Russell |page=108 |language=fr}}</ref> |
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<ref name=Picayune2012>{{cite book|author=The Picayune|title=The Picayune's Creole Cook Book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=9Ve8AQAAQBAJ&pg=PA184 |date=April 2012 |publisher=Courier Dover Publications |isbn=978-0-486-15240-0 |pages=184 |orig-year=1901}}</ref> |
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<ref name=Elie2013>{{cite book|last=Elie |first=Lolis Eric |author-link=Lolis Eric Elie|title=Treme: The Cookbook: In The Kitchen with the Stars of the Award-Winning HBO Series|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=0dxi_7Mi0i0C&pg=PA163|date=July 23, 2013|publisher=Chronicle Books|isbn=978-1-4521-2447-6|page=163}}</ref> |
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<ref name=Owen>{{cite book |last=Owen |first=Sri |title=The Rice Book |location=New York |publisher=St. Martin's |year=1993 |page=334 |isbn=0-312-14132-7}}</ref> |
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<ref name=NYT_1907>{{cite news |url=https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1907/11/03/106766092.pdf |title=The Famous Creole 'Calas' |newspaper=New York Times |date=November 3, 1907 |access-date=2012-04-06}}</ref> |
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<ref name=NPR_Godoy>{{cite web |url=https://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/10/171663336/meet-the-calas-a-new-orleans-treat-that-helped-free-slaves |title=Meet the Calas, a New Orleans Tradition that Helped Free Slaves |last=Godoy |first=Maria |date=February 12, 2013 |work=The Salt |access-date=2014-03-03}}</ref> |
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<ref name=AP_Kayal>{{cite news |last=Kayal |first=Michele |title=Sweet Rice fritters making a slow comeback in New Orleans |newspaper=Los Angeles Daily News |agency=AP |date=February 12, 2013 |url=http://www.dailynews.com/article/ZZ/20130212/NEWS/130219386 |access-date=2017-03-05}}</ref> |
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<ref name=Nobles2012>{{cite book|last=Nobles |first=Cynthia LeJeune |title=The Delta Queen Cookbook: The History and Recipes of the Legendary Steamboat |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=5ww0sxtNBdcC&pg=PA79|year=2012|publisher=Louisiana State University Press |isbn=978-0-8071-4537-1 |pages=79–80}}</ref> |
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<ref name=WilkBarbosa2012>{{cite book |editor-first1=Richard |editor-last1=Wilk |editor-first2=Livia |editor-last2=Barbosa |chapter=Red Beans and Rebuilding |last=Beriss |first=David |title=Rice and Beans: A Unique Dish in a Hundred Places |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-YmUjqQN3HkC&pg=PA248|date=August 2012 |publisher=Berg |isbn=978-1-84788-904-1|page=248}}</ref> |
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<ref name=AFR_Kayal>{{cite web |title=Calas and beignets both in New Orleans to party |url=http://www.americanfoodroots.com/50-states/calas-and-beignets-both-in-new-orleans-to-party/ |website=American Food Roots |last=Kayal |first=Michele |date=February 7, 2013 |access-date=2014-03-03}}</ref> |
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<ref name=SaxonDreyer1987>{{cite book|editor1=Saxon, Lyle |editor1-link=Lyle Saxon |editor2=Dreyer, Edward |editor3=Tallant, Robert |title=Gumbo Ya-ya: A Collection of Louisiana Folk Tales |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=f1nezXt18KIC&pg=PA34 |year=1987|orig-year=1945 |publisher=Pelican Publishing |isbn=978-0-88289-645-8 |pages=32–35}}</ref> |
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}} |
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==External links== |
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1 to 2 cups all-purpose flour |
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{{Commons cat}} |
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*{{YouTube|id=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lku0pbdh9KE|title=Poppy Tooker: New Orleans-Style Calas}} |
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1/2 cup light [[brown sugar]] |
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1/2 teaspoon [[salt]] |
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1 teaspoon freshly grated [[nutmeg]] |
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1 quart [[peanut oil]] |
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[[Confectioners' sugar]]. |
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1. Dissolve the yeast in 1 cup warm water and set aside. In a medium bowl, use a wooden spoon or rubber spatula to combine the rice and eggs. Add 1 cup of the flour, the brown sugar, salt and nutmeg; mix well. Mix in up to 1 cup additional flour to make a batter that is thick but liquid enough to be dropped easily from a spoon. Add the yeast mixture and mix thoroughly. Cover with a clean dish towel and let stand overnight at room temperature. |
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2. Place the oil in a 3-quart casserole or Dutch oven. Heat to 350 degrees. Drop heaping tablespoons of batter into the oil and fry until nicely browned. Drain on a double thickness of paper towels. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve while hot. <ref>{{cite web|url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9902E3DF1F3BF934A25753C1A9629C8B63 |title=Calas |publisher=NYTimes.com |date= |accessdate=2012-04-06}}</ref> |
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Calas (Food)}} |
{{DEFAULTSORT:Calas (Food)}} |
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[[Category: |
[[Category:American rice dishes]] |
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[[Category:Cuisine of New Orleans, Louisiana]] |
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[[Category:Deep fried foods]] |
[[Category:Deep fried foods]] |
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{{US-cuisine-stub}} |
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{{NewOrleans-stub}} |
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Latest revision as of 23:37, 29 January 2021
Calas (/kəˈlɑː/) are dumplings composed primarily of cooked rice, yeast, sugar, eggs, and flour; the resulting batter is deep-fried. It is traditionally a breakfast dish, served with coffee or cafe au lait,[1] and has a mention in most Creole cuisine cookbooks. Calas are also referred to as Creole rice fritters or rice doughnuts.
History
[edit]The origin of calas is most often credited to slaves who came from rice-growing regions of Africa.[2][3] A 1653 French recipe, beignets de riz, lends support to a French origin as well.[4] The name "calas" is said to have come from the Nupe word kara ("fried cake").[5] According to The Dictionary of American Food & Drink, the word calas was first printed in 1880.
Belles calas...Belles calas,
Tou cho, tou cho, tou cho!
Madame, mo gaignin calas,
Madame, mo gaignin calas,
Tou cho, tou cho, tou cho![a]
– "Street Criers", Gumbo Ya-Ya
Creole street vendors, typically women,[b] sold the fresh hot calas in New Orleans' French Quarter, with the cry, "Bel calas tout chauds!" (Creole for "Beautiful calas, still hot"). These vendors, called "calas women", would sell their pastries in the early morning from covered baskets or bowls carried upon their heads.[1][7]
Writers in the first decade of the 20th century refer to the increasing rarity of calas as street food.[7][8] Though not widely sold, calas continued to be made at home using leftover rice, and was a typical breakfast food in early 20th-century New Orleans.[9][5]
After World War II, while the beignet remained popular, the calas became more and more obscure. From a breakfast food it evolved into a Mardi Gras and First Communion treat among Louisiana Creole families.[4][5] It could be specially requested at some restaurants.[10] Through the efforts of food preservationists, interest in calas was revived and it began to appear on the menus of some restaurants.[9][11]
Preparation
[edit]In early recipes for calas, rice was boiled and cooled, then yeast added to make a sponge that was allowed to proof overnight. From this a batter was made by adding eggs, sugar and a little flour for binding. Rice flour was preferable but difficult to obtain, according to Eustis. A dash of salt might be included, and a grating of nutmeg was a typical addition. The batter was dropped by spoonfuls into deep, boiling lard and fried until browned.[1][7] Modern recipes reflect the changes in available ingredients, cooking practices, and taste. Baking powder is sometimes used in place of yeast; vegetable oil is substituted for lard; savory variations have been developed.[5][9]
See also
[edit]Footnotes
[edit]- Notes
- ^ "Fine rice fritters...fine rice fritters; All hot, all hot, quite hot! Madame, I have rice fritters; Madame, I have rice fritters; Quite hot, quite hot, quite hot!" This is part of a street cry several stanzas long. The street cries of calas vendors were varied and inventive.[6]
- ^ Men sold calas on occasion, one source naming Richard Gabriel, "one of the last" calas street vendors.[6]
- References
- ^ a b c Eustis, Célestine (1903). Cooking in Old Creole Days (in French). New York: R.H. Russell. p. 108.
- ^ Godoy, Maria (February 12, 2013). "Meet the Calas, a New Orleans Tradition that Helped Free Slaves". The Salt. Retrieved 2014-03-03.
- ^ Beriss, David (August 2012). "Red Beans and Rebuilding". In Wilk, Richard; Barbosa, Livia (eds.). Rice and Beans: A Unique Dish in a Hundred Places. Berg. p. 248. ISBN 978-1-84788-904-1.
- ^ a b Elie, Lolis Eric (July 23, 2013). Treme: The Cookbook: In The Kitchen with the Stars of the Award-Winning HBO Series. Chronicle Books. p. 163. ISBN 978-1-4521-2447-6.
- ^ a b c d Kayal, Michele (February 7, 2013). "Calas and beignets both in New Orleans to party". American Food Roots. Retrieved 2014-03-03.
- ^ a b Saxon, Lyle; Dreyer, Edward; Tallant, Robert, eds. (1987) [1945]. Gumbo Ya-ya: A Collection of Louisiana Folk Tales. Pelican Publishing. pp. 32–35. ISBN 978-0-88289-645-8.
- ^ a b c The Picayune (April 2012) [1901]. The Picayune's Creole Cook Book. Courier Dover Publications. p. 184. ISBN 978-0-486-15240-0.
- ^ "The Famous Creole 'Calas'" (PDF). New York Times. November 3, 1907. Retrieved 2012-04-06.
- ^ a b c Nobles, Cynthia LeJeune (2012). The Delta Queen Cookbook: The History and Recipes of the Legendary Steamboat. Louisiana State University Press. pp. 79–80. ISBN 978-0-8071-4537-1.
- ^ Owen, Sri (1993). The Rice Book. New York: St. Martin's. p. 334. ISBN 0-312-14132-7.
- ^ Kayal, Michele (February 12, 2013). "Sweet Rice fritters making a slow comeback in New Orleans". Los Angeles Daily News. AP. Retrieved 2017-03-05.
External links
[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Calas (food).